
Chef Dimitra
Bourdeto Kerkyra (Μπουρδέτο Κέρκυρας)
Corfu's bourdeto is a red, pepper-hot fish braise, traditionally made with scorpionfish, potatoes, tomato, and enough heat to announce the Ionian table.
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Cycladic octopus stifado is the fasting table's stew: octopus cooked first in its own liquor, then braised with pearl onions, red wine, vinegar, and warm spice.
Cycladic htapodi stifado is octopus with small onions, red wine, vinegar, bay, and a little warm spice, cooked until the sauce turns dark and glossy. The islands know this dish well. It belongs to the fasting table, where octopus can stand in the place meat usually holds in a stifado, without pretending to be meat.
The one rule is simple: cook the octopus first with no water. It gives up its own liquor, briny and purple-red, and that becomes the backbone of the sauce. Add water at the start and you get tenderness, yes, but a thinner dish. Keep the liquor and the pot remembers the sea.
Use small onions that can stay whole, not chopped onion that disappears. They should soften into sweetness beside the wine and vinegar, while the octopus turns tender but not woolly. This is patient food, not difficult food. Good olive oil, and patience.
I write this one as I learned to trust it from island kitchens and from the older fasting tables: λίγα και καλά, a few things, and good ones. The region is the dish's surname, and here the surname is the Aegean.
Stifado comes from the Italian stufato, a word carried into Greek cooking through Venetian rule in the Ionian islands and parts of the Aegean from the thirteenth century onward. On the islands, the form was adapted to local seafood, and octopus became a natural fasting stifado because Orthodox practice permits many shellfish and cephalopods on fasting days. The small onions, vinegar, wine, bay, and sweet spice mark the older island braise, distinct from mainland meat stifado.
Quantity
1.2kg
fresh or fully thawed if frozen
Quantity
700g
peeled
Quantity
90ml
Quantity
2 medium
thinly sliced
Quantity
4
thinly sliced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
250ml
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
400g
Quantity
2
Quantity
6
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
lightly cracked
Quantity
1 teaspoon
plus more only if needed
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cleaned octopus (χταπόδι)fresh or fully thawed if frozen | 1.2kg |
| pearl onions or small shallotspeeled | 700g |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oil | 90ml |
| red onionsthinly sliced | 2 medium |
| garlic clovesthinly sliced | 4 |
| tomato paste | 2 tablespoons |
| dry red wine | 250ml |
| red wine vinegar | 60ml |
| crushed ripe tomatoes or canned crushed tomatoes | 400g |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| whole allspice berries | 6 |
| small cinnamon stick | 1 |
| dried Greek oregano | 1 teaspoon |
| black peppercornslightly cracked | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea saltplus more only if needed | 1 teaspoon |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)chopped | 2 tablespoons |
Put the octopus in a heavy pot with no water. Cover and set over medium-low heat for 35 to 45 minutes, turning once or twice, until it releases its own dark pink liquor and a knife enters the thickest part with some resistance. This is the step that decides the dish. Water washes the sea out of octopus; its own liquor gives the stifado its deep, clean base.
Lift the octopus onto a board and strain the cooking liquor through a fine sieve into a jug. Cut the arms into generous 4cm pieces and the head into smaller pieces, discarding the beak if it is still attached. Keep the liquor. It is not waste; it is the dish speaking.
Wipe the pot clean. Add the olive oil, sliced red onions, and pearl onions, then cook over medium heat for 12 to 15 minutes. Shake the pot more than you stir, so the small onions stay whole. They should turn glossy and sweet at the edges, not brown hard.
Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the tomato paste and let it darken for 2 minutes, then pour in the red wine and vinegar. Scrape the base of the pot and let the sharp smell soften for 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the crushed tomatoes, bay leaves, allspice, cinnamon, oregano, cracked peppercorns, the reserved octopus liquor, and the octopus pieces. Bring to a low bubble, cover partly, and cook for 45 to 60 minutes, until the octopus is tender and the onions are soft but still holding their shape.
Taste before you add salt, because octopus brings its own. Add the sea salt only as needed, then simmer uncovered for 10 minutes if the sauce needs tightening. Pull out the bay leaves and cinnamon stick. Rest the stifado off the heat for 15 minutes before serving, with parsley if you like and good bread for the sauce.
1 serving (about 440g)
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