
Chef Lupita
Alegrías de Amaranto de Tulyehualco
Ciudad de México's Tulyehualco alegría is popped huautli folded into piloncillo honey, pressed with peanuts, pepitas, and raisins, then cut into the rectangular bars that built a pueblo's identity.
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Puebla's Christmas tejocotes, from the cold slopes near San Andrés Calpan, simmered whole in piloncillo, canela, clove, and orange until the fruit turns tender and amber.
Puebla, especially the cold highland orchards around San Andrés Calpan, Huejotzingo, and the slopes near Popocatépetl, is where I place this dish. Tejocotes grow where the air turns sharp in late autumn. That matters. This is not tropical fruit dressed up for December. This is central Mexico's Christmas fruit, tart, firm, and stubborn until the syrup teaches it manners.
The defining ingredient is the tejocote itself, small Mexican hawthorn with yellow-orange skin and a perfume that wakes up when it meets piloncillo and canela. The same fruit goes into ponche navideño, yes, but en almíbar it stands alone. You blanch it, peel it, and simmer it whole. No me vengas con atajos. If you leave the skin on, the syrup turns rough and bitter. If you boil it hard, the fruit splits and you get mush.
I learned this version from a woman at the Calpan market who sold tejocotes by the bucket in December, her hands stained from peeling more fruit before noon than most people peel in a year. She told me: low fire, whole fruit, piloncillo first. She was right. Saber cocinar es saber vivir, and sometimes knowing how to cook is knowing when not to make the fruit hurry.
Tejocote, Crataegus mexicana, is native to the Mexican highlands and was used in central Mexico before the Spanish conquest as food and medicine. After the colonial introduction of cane sugar and the wider use of piloncillo, cooks in Puebla, the Estado de México, Hidalgo, and Tlaxcala preserved seasonal fruits in almíbar for winter tables and religious holidays. San Andrés Calpan in Puebla remains closely associated with tejocote production, and the fruit's strongest national identity is tied to Christmas ponche and December market cooking.
Quantity
2 pounds
rinsed well
Quantity
6 cups, plus more for blanching
Quantity
1 cone, about 8 ounces
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2
Quantity
3
Quantity
1 strip
pith removed
Quantity
1 pinch
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh tejocotesrinsed well | 2 pounds |
| water | 6 cups, plus more for blanching |
| piloncillo | 1 cone, about 8 ounces |
| granulated sugar | 1 cup |
| Mexican cinnamon sticks (canela) | 2 |
| whole cloves | 3 |
| orange peelpith removed | 1 strip |
| kosher salt | 1 pinch |
Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add the tejocotes and cook for 5 minutes, just until the skins loosen and wrinkle. Drain them and rinse under cool water until you can handle them. This is not cooking them through. This is loosening the skin so the syrup can reach the fruit.
Peel each tejocote with your fingers or a small knife. Leave the fruit whole, pits inside. Do not cut them in half unless they are bruised. Whole tejocotes hold their shape in the almíbar and look right in the cazuela. The skin is tough and bitter, so remove it. Así se hace y punto.
Combine the 6 cups water, piloncillo, sugar, canela, cloves, orange peel, and salt in a wide clay cazuela or heavy pot. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring until the piloncillo dissolves. The syrup should smell like Christmas in the central highlands: dark sugar, cinnamon, citrus, and fruit waiting its turn.
Add the peeled tejocotes to the syrup. Lower the heat so the liquid moves gently. Cook uncovered for 35 to 45 minutes, until the fruit is tender when pierced with a small knife but still whole. Do not boil hard. A hard boil bursts the fruit and clouds the syrup. Patience gives you clear almíbar and fruit that keeps its dignity.
Turn off the heat and let the tejocotes cool in the syrup for at least 1 hour. They absorb more flavor as they sit. Remove the orange peel and cloves if you want a cleaner presentation. The canela can stay in the cazuela because people know what it is.
Serve at room temperature or slightly warm in small clay bowls, with enough syrup to spoon over each fruit. For Christmas tables, set the cazuela out family-style. These are not candy-store sweets. They are market fruit preserved for the season. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 300g)
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