Sweet Rolled Omelet (伊達巻, Datemaki)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Small rectangular baking pan, about 20 by 25 cm
• •Blender or food processor
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Oni-sudare bamboo mat, or a regular sushi rolling mat
• •Kitchen string

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the pan

   Heat the oven to 180 C. Line a small rectangular baking pan, about 20 by 25 cm, with parchment and brush it lightly with oil. The parchment gives you clean edges and helps release the tender omelet without tearing it, which matters because the roll will show every rough place.

2. 2

   Blend the batter

   Put the eggs, torn hanpen, sugar, mirin, sake, usukuchi soy sauce, and salt in a blender. Blend until completely smooth, then pause and scrape the sides once. Hanpen is what gives datemaki its soft, springy body, so it must disappear into the egg rather than sit in little lumps.

   Do not beat in extra air after the batter is smooth. Foam makes the surface puffy and uneven, and datemaki wants a fine, even crumb.
3. 3

   Strain and settle

   Strain the batter through a fine sieve into a bowl, pressing lightly with a spatula only enough to help it pass. Let it stand for five minutes, then skim off large bubbles. Straining removes stubborn bits of hanpen and gives the finished roll the close, tender texture you are after.

4. 4

   Bake gently

   Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 18 to 22 minutes, until the top is golden and the center springs back softly when touched. It should be set, not dry. Overbake it and the sheet loses its bend, which makes the rolling harder than it needs to be.

5. 5

   Roll while warm

   Turn the warm omelet out onto a bamboo rolling mat with the browned side facing down. Peel away the parchment. Starting from the short end, roll it firmly but not harshly, using the mat to guide the curve. Warm egg is pliant, and this is when it will accept the spiral without cracking.

   For the ridged New Year shape, use an oni-sudare, a coarse bamboo mat. A regular sushi mat works as a stand-in, but the ridges will be gentler.
6. 6

   Tie and cool

   Keep the roll wrapped in the mat and tie it in two or three places with kitchen string. Let it cool completely, at least one hour. The gentle pressure sets the spiral and gives the outside its ridges, so do not rush this part.

7. 7

   Slice and serve

   Unwrap the cooled roll and slice it into rounds about 1.5 cm thick with a sharp knife. Wipe the blade between cuts so the yellow face stays clean. Arrange an odd number of slices in the osechi box or on a small plate, with space around them. Leave it room.

Chef Tips

• •Buy hanpen that is pale, soft, and fresh-smelling. It should smell clean and faintly of the sea, never sour or strong. Since the dish is so simple, the fish cake has nowhere to hide.
• •Taste the batter before baking only if your eggs are safe for raw tasting, or cook a spoonful in a small pan. It should be sweet, lightly savory, and gentle. Datemaki is festive food, not dessert.
• •Roll while warm. That is the whole secret. If the sheet cools flat, warm it very briefly under a loose cover, just enough to make it flexible again.
• •Cut with one clean pull rather than sawing. The spiral is the point of the dish, and a clean face makes the New Year wish visible.

Advance Preparation

• •Datemaki is best made a day ahead. Cool it in the mat, unwrap it, then wrap the roll tightly and refrigerate overnight before slicing.
• •The finished roll keeps 3 days refrigerated. Slice it shortly before serving so the cut faces stay clean and moist.
• •For osechi service, pack the slices into the jubako after they are fully chilled. Warm datemaki sweats in the box and loses its neat surface.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 40g)