
Chef Joost
Andijviestamppot
The Dutch trick is not cooking the andijvie at all: let the hot potatoes do the work, so the greens soften, stay bright, and keep their clean bitter bite.
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Spruitjesstamppot is the winter mash that redeems the vegetable Dutch children feared: roasted little sprouts, floury potatoes, red onion, and crisp bacon, pounded together with just enough butter to make peace.
The vegetables in my grandmother's second notebook arrive with weather on them. Sprouts after the first hard cold. Potatoes from the sack under the stairs. Red onions because even a frugal pot deserves a little sweetness. This is the family-table doorway for spruitjesstamppot, not a feast day, not a painted banquet, just the grey Tuesday food that teaches a country what it really eats.
But let me tell you a secret. Most people who say they hate spruitjes don't hate Brussels sprouts; they hate the memory of them boiled to a grey-green apology in school kitchens. The sprout is innocent. Water did the damage. Roast the halved sprouts first and the cut faces brown, the sulfur quiets down, and the nutty sweetness steps forward like it had been there all along.
The name already tells you how plainspoken the dish is. Spruitjes are little sprouts, and stamppot comes from stampen, to pound or mash: not a romance, a kitchen command. Mash them through floury potato with red onion and crisp spekblokjes, smoked bacon cubes, or smoked tempeh when the table needs to be meatless. Hou het altijd simpel. Brown first, mash second, butter in the kuiltje, the little hollow on top, and the old bitterness has nowhere left to hide.
Potato-based stamppot belongs to Dutch cooking after the potato became common in the eighteenth century, when cheap mashed vegetables fed households through the cold months. Brussels sprouts were cultivated around Brussels in the Low Countries and were sufficiently identified with that city that English called them Brussels sprouts by the late eighteenth century; in Dutch kitchens they are simply spruitjes, little sprouts. Spruitjesstamppot is a twentieth-century home variant rather than a festival monument, and that is its point: weekday Dutch food keeping season, thrift, and appetite in one pot.
Quantity
1kg
peeled and cut into chunks
Quantity
650g
trimmed and halved
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
150g
diced if needed
Quantity
2
thinly sliced
Quantity
125ml
warmed
Quantity
40g
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
a little
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| floury potatoes (kruimige aardappelen)peeled and cut into chunks | 1kg |
| Brussels sprouts (spruitjes)trimmed and halved | 650g |
| neutral oil | 2 tablespoons |
| smoked bacon lardons (spekblokjes, bacon cubes) or smoked tempehdiced if needed | 150g |
| red onionsthinly sliced | 2 |
| whole milk or unsweetened oat milkwarmed | 125ml |
| butter or plant butter | 40g |
| coarse Dutch mustard | 2 teaspoons |
| freshly grated nutmeg | 1/4 teaspoon |
| apple cider vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| salt and freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| extra butter or plant butter (optional) | a little |
Heat the oven to 220C. Toss the halved spruitjes, Brussels sprouts, with 1 tablespoon of the oil, a good pinch of salt, and black pepper, then spread them cut side down on a rimmed baking tray. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes, turning once, until the cut faces are browned and the outer leaves have crisped at the edges. That browning is not decoration; it is the difference between sweetness and the old school-kitchen bitterness.
Put the potatoes in a large pot, cover with cold water, and add a tablespoon of salt. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 18 to 20 minutes, until a knife slides through without resistance. Drain them well and let them sit in the colander for a minute; wet potatoes make a slack stamppot, and nobody asked for that.
Return the empty pot to medium heat. Add the spekblokjes, smoked bacon cubes, and cook until the fat renders and the edges turn crisp. If using smoked tempeh or vegan spekjes, start with the remaining tablespoon of oil and a pinch of salt. Add the red onions and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often, until they are soft and browned at the edges. Stir in the vinegar and scrape the bottom of the pot clean. Spoon a third of the mixture into a small bowl for the top.
Return the drained potatoes to the pot with the remaining onion and bacon. Add the warmed milk, butter, mustard, and nutmeg, then mash with a sturdy potato masher until rough and creamy. Do not use a blender. Stamppot should have shoulders, not wallpaper paste.
Fold in the roasted sprouts, crushing some into the potato and leaving some browned pieces visible. Taste for salt and pepper. Spoon the stamppot into a serving bowl, make a kuiltje, a little hollow, in the top, and let a small knob of butter settle there if you like. Scatter over the reserved bacon and onion and bring it straight to the table.
1 serving (about 455g)
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