
Chef Isabel
All Cremat de Vilanova
All Cremat de Vilanova is Catalan boat cooking: garlic taken dark in olive oil, then tomato, fish stock, and firm fish, no potato, just a broth with nerve.
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Sopa de peix is Mallorcan spoon food: a clean rockfish broth, a slow tomato sofrito, saffron and pine nuts pounded into a picada, and bread scalded in the bowl.
Sopa de peix Mallorquina belongs to Mallorca, and it tastes of the rocky coast more than of any grand fish counter: small rockfish, tomato, garlic, saffron, olive oil, and thin slices of country bread that drink the broth. This is Balearic cocina de cuchara, spoon food, but lighter than a winter stew. The fish gives the sea, the sofrito gives the sweetness, and the picada, the pounded finish, ties it down.
The method that decides it is the broth. Use bony, clean-tasting fish and simmer it gently, never hard, then strain it carefully. Boil fish bones like punishment and the broth turns cloudy and rough. Treat them with patience and you get a clear, golden soup that tastes deeper than the work you put in.
If you are far from Mallorca, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use a mix of small whole fish, fish frames, monkfish bone, red mullet, gurnard, or snapper heads from a good fishmonger. What changes is the perfume: Mediterranean rockfish gives a particular sweetness, but a careful mixed fish broth still gets you there. Add the bread at the end and let the soup scald it soft. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Sopa de peix belongs to the Balearic coast, where fishermen's kitchens made use of morralla, the small mixed rockfish too bony or humble to sell as fine pieces. Mallorca's version often finishes the broth with a picada of garlic, saffron, parsley, and nuts, a Catalan-Balearic way of giving body and aroma without cream or flour. The thin local bread slices called sopes are not a garnish; they are the old substance of the dish, turning a fish broth into a meal.
Quantity
1.2kg
cleaned and rinsed
Quantity
300g
cut into large pieces
Quantity
250g
grated
Quantity
1 (about 180g)
finely chopped
Quantity
1
sliced
Quantity
1 (about 80g)
sliced
Quantity
4
divided
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
1
Quantity
1.5 litres
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
1 small pinch
Quantity
25g
Quantity
10g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
160g
thinly sliced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mixed small rockfish or fish frames and headscleaned and rinsed | 1.2kg |
| firm white fish fillets, such as monkfish, hake, or sea basscut into large pieces | 300g |
| ripe tomatoesgrated | 250g |
| large onionfinely chopped | 1 (about 180g) |
| small leek, white part onlysliced | 1 |
| small carrotsliced | 1 (about 80g) |
| garlic clovesdivided | 4 |
| extra virgin olive oil | 80ml |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| cold water | 1.5 litres |
| dry white wine | 120ml |
| saffron threads | 1 small pinch |
| pine nuts | 25g |
| flat-leaf parsley leaves | 10g |
| sweet pimentón | 1 teaspoon |
| salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| day-old country breadthinly sliced | 160g |
Rinse the rockfish, frames, and heads under cold water, removing any blood from the bones and gills if the heads still have them. This matters. Blood makes a fish broth taste muddy before you've even begun. Salt the firm fish pieces lightly and keep them cold for later.
Warm 60ml of the olive oil in a wide pot over medium-low heat. Add the onion, leek, carrot, 2 sliced garlic cloves, and a pinch of salt. Cook slowly for 15 minutes, stirring often, until the onion is soft and golden at the edges. Add the grated tomato and cook another 12 to 15 minutes, until the liquid is gone and the oil shows red at the edge. That slow sofrito, the cooked-down onion and tomato base, is where the soup gets its sweetness.
Stir in the pimentón for 10 seconds, then add the white wine and let it reduce by half. Add the cleaned rockfish and bones, the bay leaf, and 1.5 litres cold water. Bring it just to a tremble, skim the surface, then lower the heat and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Do not boil it hard. A fish broth is not a punishment; rough heat gives you rough soup.
Set a fine sieve over a clean pot and strain the broth without pressing hard on the bones. Pressing forces bitterness and cloudy bits through. You should have about 1.1 to 1.2 litres of broth. Taste it now and add salt until it tastes clearly of the sea, not just of hot water.
Toast the saffron for a few seconds in a dry pan, just until it smells warm, then crumble it into a mortar. Add the pine nuts, parsley, the remaining 2 garlic cloves, a pinch of salt, and the remaining 20ml olive oil. Pound to a rough paste. Picada is not decoration; it thickens the broth lightly and gives the saffron somewhere to bloom.
Bring the strained broth back to a gentle simmer. Stir in the picada and simmer for 5 minutes, then add the firm fish pieces and cook 4 to 6 minutes, depending on thickness, until the fish just flakes. Grind in a little black pepper. If you cook the fish past done, it will forgive you once. Not twice.
Lay the thin slices of day-old bread in warm deep bowls, or in one shallow serving dish. Ladle the hot soup over the bread so it softens and swells but still holds its shape. Set a few pieces of fish on top of each bowl and spoon over the golden broth. Serve at once, with the bread fully soaked. Tal como se hace allí.
1 serving (about 390g)
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