
Chef Isabel
All Cremat de Vilanova
All Cremat de Vilanova is Catalan boat cooking: garlic taken dark in olive oil, then tomato, fish stock, and firm fish, no potato, just a broth with nerve.
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All i pebre is Valencian marsh-country spoon food: eel, garlic, sweet pimentón, and cracked potatoes cooked in water until the starch and picada turn the broth glossy and deep red.
All i pebre d'anguila is Valencian, from the marsh country of l'Albufera: eel cut thick, plenty of garlic, sweet pebre roig, potatoes cracked into the broth, and a picada pounded at the end to pull it together. It is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, not a coastal fish stew painted red. No tomato sofrito here. No stock. The eel gives gelatin, the potatoes give body, and the garlic and paprika give the name.
The step that decides it is the pimentón. Let the garlic go only pale gold, pull the cazuela from the heat, stir in the paprika for a few seconds, and add the water before it catches. Burn that paprika and the whole pot tastes bitter. Treat it gently and the broth goes brick red, glossy, and sweet, with the potatoes breaking at the edges just enough to thicken it.
If you're far from Valencia and no eel is coming through your market, ask first for cleaned conger eel in center cuts, or use monkfish tail in thick chunks. Conger keeps more of the gelatin; monkfish gives you the firm bite but less richness, so the picada has to do more work. No hace falta haber pisado España. You need a wide pot, good pimentón, and the patience not to rush the base.
My margin note for this one is plain: water is right here. The eel, garlic, and potatoes make their own broth. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
All i pebre belongs to the villages around l'Albufera de València, especially El Palmar, where eels from the marsh were cooked in simple cazuelas with garlic and pebre roig. The name is Valencian for garlic and pepper, a plain description of the base that flavored a fish abundant in the rice-growing wetlands. The same landscape of ditches, boats, reeds, and rice fields fed both eel stews and the rice dishes of Valencia, but all i pebre stays a spoon dish, broth and potato, not a paella.
Quantity
900g
skin on, cut into 5cm pieces
Quantity
750g
peeled and cracked into 4cm chunks
Quantity
90ml
Quantity
12 (about 45g)
peeled, 10 lightly crushed and 2 reserved for the picada
Quantity
1
Quantity
14g
Quantity
1.1 litres, plus a little more if needed
Quantity
10g, plus more to taste
Quantity
30g
Quantity
25g
torn
Quantity
5g
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cleaned eelskin on, cut into 5cm pieces | 900g |
| waxy potatoespeeled and cracked into 4cm chunks | 750g |
| extra virgin olive oil | 90ml |
| garlic clovespeeled, 10 lightly crushed and 2 reserved for the picada | 12 (about 45g) |
| dried guindilla or small dried chilli | 1 |
| sweet pimentón or Valencian pebre roig | 14g |
| water | 1.1 litres, plus a little more if needed |
| fine sea salt | 10g, plus more to taste |
| blanched almonds | 30g |
| day-old rustic breadtorn | 25g |
| flat-leaf parsley leaves | 5g |
Ask the fishmonger to clean the eel for you, and keep the skin on; that skin is part of the gelatin that gives the broth its body. Pat the pieces dry. Crack the potatoes instead of slicing them cleanly: push the knife in partway, then twist so the pieces break with rough edges. Those rough edges shed starch into the broth, and that matters.
Warm 2 tablespoons of the measured olive oil in a wide cazuela or heavy saute pan. Fry the bread until golden on both sides, then lift it out. Add the almonds and turn them for a minute until lightly golden, not dark. Pound the fried bread, almonds, 2 reserved garlic cloves, parsley, and a pinch of the salt in a mortar until you have a coarse paste. This is the picada, the pounded thickener that finishes the stew.
Add the remaining olive oil to the cazuela. Put in the 10 crushed garlic cloves and the guindilla, and cook over medium-low heat until the garlic is pale gold and smells sweet. Pull the pan off the heat, stir in the pimentón for 5 to 10 seconds, then pour in the water right away, carefully down the side of the pan. This is the step that decides the dish: pimentón blooms in oil, but if it burns, it turns bitter and no picada will save it.
Bring the red broth to a lively simmer. Add the potatoes, eel pieces, and the rest of the salt, pressing everything just under the liquid. Simmer uncovered for 18 to 22 minutes, shaking the cazuela now and then by the handles instead of stirring hard. The potatoes should be tender at the center and frayed at the edges; the eel should be opaque and pull cleanly from its center bone.
Ladle a little hot broth into the mortar and loosen the picada, scraping up every bit. Slide it into the cazuela, shake the pan gently, and simmer 4 to 5 minutes more until the broth turns glossy and clings lightly to a spoon. It should be a broth, not a paste. If it tightens too much, add a splash of water and shake the pan again.
Take the cazuela off the heat and let it rest 5 minutes so the oil settles red at the rim and the potatoes finish drinking in the broth. Taste for salt. Serve from the cazuela into deep bowls, with bread for the broth and a warning about the bones. Tal como se hace allí.
1 serving (about 660g)
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