
Chef Isabel
All Cremat de Vilanova
All Cremat de Vilanova is Catalan boat cooking: garlic taken dark in olive oil, then tomato, fish stock, and firm fish, no potato, just a broth with nerve.
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Bullit de Peix is Ibiza's fisherman's meal in two turns: firm white fish and potatoes lifted from a saffron broth with allioli, then short rice cooked in that same broth until dry.
Bullit de Peix is Ibizan, from Eivissa in the Balearic Islands: firm white fish and potatoes cooked in a saffron-tinted broth, eaten first with allioli, then followed by rice cooked in that same broth. One catch, two courses. That is what makes it itself and not just another coastal fish stew.
The method that decides it is the boil, which must not become a beating. Make a clean fish broth first, then let the potatoes cook until nearly tender before the fish goes in. Fish cooks quickly and forgives very little. Keep the pot at a low tremble, lift the pieces as soon as they open at the bone, and the flesh stays sweet instead of turning cottony.
If you are far from Ibiza, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use firm white fish on the bone: monkfish, grouper, snapper, black sea bass, or sea bream. Hake works only if you add it at the very end. What changes is the broth: without Mediterranean rockfish it will be a little less mineral and deep, so ask for heads and collars, and do not use salmon, tuna, or mackerel. Oily fish makes a heavy broth, and this dish wants clean strength.
My note in the Margin for this one is short: fish last, rice after. Obvious, yes, but only after you've watched good fish break apart because you were fussing with it. Leave it be. The broth does the carrying, the allioli gives it bite, and the rice takes what is left. Nothing wasted, tal como se hace allí.
Bullit de peix belongs to Eivissa and Formentera, the Pityusic Islands, where fishermen and their families made a meal from rockfish, potatoes, garlic, and the broth left in the pot. The first course honors the best pieces of fish with allioli; the second turns the same broth into arròs a banda, rice apart, so nothing from the catch is wasted. It sits with the fish boils of the Catalan-speaking coast, but the Ibizan table marks it by serving the boiled fish and potatoes before the dry rice, not as one mixed stew.
Quantity
800g
rinsed
Quantity
1.2kg
cleaned, cut into large 6-8cm pieces
Quantity
2.6L
Quantity
1 medium (150g)
halved
Quantity
400g
150g halved for broth, 250g grated for cooking
Quantity
1
Quantity
10
for broth
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
2
soaked 20 minutes, pulp scraped
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
80ml
divided
Quantity
4 cloves
2 sliced, 2 minced
Quantity
700g
peeled, cut into 3cm chunks
Quantity
0.2g
crumbled
Quantity
350g
Quantity
17g, divided
plus more if needed
Quantity
2 small cloves
germ removed if harsh
Quantity
1
room temperature
Quantity
180ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fish bones, heads, or small rockfish for brothrinsed | 800g |
| mixed firm white fish on the bonecleaned, cut into large 6-8cm pieces | 1.2kg |
| cold water | 2.6L |
| onionhalved | 1 medium (150g) |
| ripe tomatoes150g halved for broth, 250g grated for cooking | 400g |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| parsley stemsfor broth | 10 |
| parsley leaveschopped | 2 tablespoons |
| dried ñora pepperssoaked 20 minutes, pulp scraped | 2 |
| sweet pimentón, if ñoras are unavailable (optional) | 2 teaspoons |
| extra virgin olive oildivided | 80ml |
| garlic for broth and sofrito2 sliced, 2 minced | 4 cloves |
| waxy potatoespeeled, cut into 3cm chunks | 700g |
| saffron threadscrumbled | 0.2g |
| bomba or Calasparra short-grain rice | 350g |
| fine sea saltplus more if needed | 17g, divided |
| garlic for allioligerm removed if harsh | 2 small cloves |
| egg yolkroom temperature | 1 |
| mild olive oil for allioli | 180ml |
| lemon juice or white wine vinegar | 1 teaspoon |
Sprinkle the serving fish with 8g of the salt and keep it cold while you make the broth. Soak the ñoras in warm water for 20 minutes, split them open, and scrape out the soft red pulp with the back of a knife. If you have only sweet pimentón, use it later in the sofrito, not in the soaking bowl, because paprika doesn't need softening.
Put the fish bones, heads, or small rockfish in a wide pot with the cold water, onion, halved tomato, bay leaf, parsley stems, and 2 sliced garlic cloves. Bring it slowly to a gentle simmer, skim the grey foam, and cook 30 minutes only. Fish broth is not a beef stew; boil it hard or cook it for hours and it turns dull and bitter. Strain gently, without crushing the bones. You want about 2.1L broth; add a little water if you are short.
Crush the 2 small garlic cloves in a mortar with 2g of salt until you have a smooth paste. Work in the egg yolk, then add the mild olive oil first by drops, then in a thin thread, stirring all the time until the sauce is thick enough to hold ridges. Stir in the lemon juice or vinegar at the end. If it splits, start a fresh yolk in a clean bowl and beat the split sauce into it spoon by spoon. Nadie nace sabiendo.
Warm 50ml of the extra virgin olive oil in a wide heavy pot over low heat. Add the remaining 2 minced garlic cloves and let them scent the oil without browning. Add 150g of the grated tomato, the pulp from 1 ñora, the saffron, and 2g of salt. Cook 10 to 12 minutes, stirring now and then, until the tomato is dark, thick, and the oil shows at the edges. This little sofrito, the slow tomato and garlic base, is where the sweetness enters the broth.
Add 1.2L of the strained broth to the sofrito and bring it to a steady simmer. Add the potatoes and cook 14 to 16 minutes, until a knife goes in but the centers still have a little resistance. They must be almost done before the fish goes in, because fish waits for nobody.
Lay the firmest fish pieces into the pot first, bone side down, then add the more delicate pieces after 3 minutes. Keep the broth at a low simmer, never a rolling boil, and cook 6 to 9 minutes more, depending on thickness. The fish is ready when the flakes just begin to open and the bone pulls cleanly. Do not stir with a spoon. Shake the pot by the handles if you need to settle things.
Lift the fish and potatoes carefully onto a warm wide platter. Whisk 3 tablespoons of the allioli with 100ml of the cooking broth until pourable, then spoon it over the fish and potatoes. Scatter over the chopped parsley. Serve this first, with the rest of the allioli on the side. Keep all the remaining broth for the rice.
Measure 900ml of broth for the rice and bring it to a boil in a small pan. In a 30cm shallow pan, warm the remaining 30ml olive oil. Add the remaining 100g grated tomato, the pulp from the second ñora, and 5g salt, then cook 6 to 8 minutes until thick. Stir in the rice for 1 minute so every grain shines with the oil and tomato.
Add the 900ml hot broth all at once and spread the rice flat. From this moment, do not stir. Cook 10 minutes over a lively heat, then 7 to 8 minutes lower, until the rice is just tender and the surface looks dry. Rest 5 minutes off the heat. This is arròs a banda, rice apart, the second turn of the same catch. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
1 serving (about 900g)
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