
Chef Takumi
Candied Dried Sardines (田作り, Tazukuri)
Tazukuri asks for one careful pan: toast the little dried fish until brittle, coat them in a glossy soy-sugar glaze, and stop before sweetness turns bitter.
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Nishime is the quiet heart of the New Year box: vegetables cut with care, simmered gently in shiitake-konbu dashi, and left overnight to drink in the seasoning.
Nishime looks complicated because the New Year box makes everything look ceremonial. It isn't difficult. It is a pot of good winter vegetables, each cut cleanly, each simmered until it tastes of dashi and still tastes of itself.
The one detail that decides it is order. Lotus root, carrot, taro, konnyaku, and shiitake do not cook at the same speed, and they don't ask for the same handling. If you throw them in carelessly, the taro clouds the broth, the carrot softens too far, and the lotus loses its snap. Cook with patience, and each piece keeps its nature. That is honmono, not fuss.
For a meatless table, we set the dashi on konbu and dried shiitake, the way the temple kitchens do. It gives depth without pretending to be fish stock. A little soy sauce, mirin, and sugar carry the seasoning, but nothing hides the vegetables. The dish is better the next day, which is merciful. Even New Year cooking should let the cook sleep.
Nishime became closely tied to osechi ryōri, the foods packed for the first days of the New Year, because simmered dishes keep well and could be prepared before the hearth rested. The name comes from nishimeru, to simmer down until the seasoning is taken in, a method older than the modern boxed New Year spread. Many of its vegetables carry auspicious meanings: lotus root for seeing clearly ahead, taro for family increase, and konnyaku twists for firm bonds.
Quantity
1 piece (about 10g)
Quantity
6
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
300g
peeled and cut into 1/2-inch rounds
Quantity
2 medium
cut into thick rounds or plum shapes
Quantity
6 (about 500g)
peeled
Quantity
1 block (about 250g)
rinsed and twisted
Quantity
150g
scrubbed and cut on the diagonal
Quantity
12
strings removed
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 1/2 tablespoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for soaking lotus root
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| konbu (dried kelp) | 1 piece (about 10g) |
| dried shiitake mushrooms | 6 |
| cold water | 4 cups |
| lotus rootpeeled and cut into 1/2-inch rounds | 300g |
| carrotscut into thick rounds or plum shapes | 2 medium |
| small taropeeled | 6 (about 500g) |
| konnyakurinsed and twisted | 1 block (about 250g) |
| gobo (burdock root)scrubbed and cut on the diagonal | 150g |
| snow peasstrings removed | 12 |
| soy sauce | 3 tablespoons |
| mirin | 3 tablespoons |
| sake | 2 tablespoons |
| sugar | 1 1/2 tablespoons |
| sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| rice vinegarfor soaking lotus root | 1 tablespoon |
Put the konbu, dried shiitake, and cold water in a bowl and soak for at least 4 hours, or overnight in the refrigerator. Slow soaking pulls out sweetness and depth without clouding the stock. Lift out the konbu before heating if you soaked overnight, then warm the liquid gently with the shiitake until it smells round and earthy. Do not boil the konbu, because boiling draws out bitterness and a slick texture you don't want here.
Remove the shiitake stems and halve the caps. Peel the lotus root and cut it into rounds, then soak it in water with the rice vinegar for 10 minutes. The vinegar keeps the color clear and reins in the raw edge. Scrub the gobo and cut it on the diagonal, then soak briefly in plain water so it stays clean-tasting without losing its earthiness.
Peel the taro, then rub it with a little salt and rinse away the slippery starch. Parboil it for 5 minutes and drain. This keeps the final broth clear instead of milky. Cut the carrots into thick rounds, or into plum shapes if New Year formality pleases you. Blanch the snow peas for 30 seconds, rinse cold, and set them aside. They are color, not stew meat, so they go in at the end.
Slice the konnyaku into 1/4-inch slabs, cut a small slit in the center of each, and pull one end through the slit to make a twist. Boil the twists for 3 minutes, then drain. This removes the alkaline smell and roughens the surface so the seasoning can cling. The twist is not decoration alone. It helps the piece taste seasoned instead of rubbery.
In a wide pot, combine 3 cups of the shiitake-konbu dashi with the soy sauce, mirin, sake, sugar, and salt. Taste it now. It should be a little stronger than soup, because the vegetables will take in the seasoning and soften it. Add the taro, lotus root, gobo, konnyaku, carrot, and shiitake in a single layer if possible.
Bring the pot to a quiet simmer and set a wooden drop-lid, otoshibuta, directly on the vegetables. A circle of parchment with a small hole in the center works well. The lid keeps the pieces under the broth and lets the seasoning circulate without stirring, which would break the taro and bruise the cut faces.
Simmer gently for 25 to 35 minutes, until a skewer slips into the taro and carrot without force and the lotus root still has a little bite. If the broth drops too low, add a splash of the remaining dashi. Do not boil hard. Nishime should settle into flavor, not be bullied into it.
Take the pot off the heat and let the vegetables cool in their broth. This resting time is when the seasoning truly enters. Chill overnight if you can, then bring the dish back to room temperature before serving. Add the snow peas just before plating so their green stays clean.
Lift each vegetable out gently and arrange them in small groups, not a heap. Let the lotus show its holes, turn the carrot face upward, and give the taro a little height. Spoon a little cooking broth over the top for gloss. In a jubako, leave space between the pieces. Ma, the empty space, is part of the meal.
1 serving (about 280g)
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