
Chef Takumi
Aspara-bacon (アスパラベーコン, bacon-wrapped asparagus)
Aspara-bacon is late-spring asparagus treated with common sense: thin bacon, hot grill, and a last brush of shōyu and mirin so the spear stays sweet while the wrap crisps.
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Shishito kushiyaki is almost all ingredient and fire: small green peppers, blistered quickly over hot coals, finished plainly so their sweetness and occasional bite stay honest.
Shishito ask very little of you. Choose them firm, glossy, and bright green, then give them enough heat to blister before they soften into sadness. That is the dish. One pepper in ten may be hot, and we accept this as a small household gambling habit, cheaper than most.
The point is quick grilling. A slow fire cooks the flesh before the skin chars, and the peppers collapse. A hot grill blisters the outside while the inside stays tender and sweet, with a little snap left in the walls. Prick each pepper once before it meets the fire. Not as fuss, but because trapped air can make them burst, and a cook should choose the drama, not be chosen by it.
Finish them with salt if the peppers are at their prime, their shun doing nearly all the work. For a richer table, brush them once with tare, a soy and mirin glaze, near the end so the sugars gloss and darken without burning. This is kushiyaki, skewered grilling, and the method is the menu: fire, timing, restraint. Nothing hidden. Leave the peppers room on the plate and let the blistered skins speak first.
Kushiyaki simply means food grilled on skewers, and it developed as a broad method rather than one fixed dish, from festival stalls to izakaya counters in the twentieth century. Shishito, a small Japanese variety of Capsicum annuum, takes its name from the pepper tip's supposed resemblance to a lion's head, shishi. It is commonly grilled whole in summer and early autumn, when the skins blister readily and the flesh is still sweet.
Quantity
24
firm, glossy, stems left on
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, plus more for finishing
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 wedge
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| shishito peppersfirm, glossy, stems left on | 24 |
| neutral oil | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon, plus more for finishing |
| soy sauce | 2 tablespoons |
| mirin | 1 tablespoon |
| sake | 1 teaspoon |
| sugar | 1/2 teaspoon |
| lemon or sudachi wedge (optional) | 1 wedge |
If using bamboo skewers, soak them in water for at least ten minutes while you prepare the peppers. Wet bamboo chars more slowly, which buys you enough time to blister the peppers instead of burning the handles.
Rinse the shishito and dry them very well. Prick each pepper once near the shoulder with the tip of a skewer or knife. Dry skin blisters cleanly; wet skin steams against the grill and turns slack. The small prick lets trapped air escape so the peppers don't burst.
For the optional glaze, stir the soy sauce, mirin, sake, and sugar in a small pan and simmer for two to three minutes, just until glossy and lightly thickened. Cook it briefly so the raw edge of the sake leaves and the sugar dissolves. This is tare, a finishing glaze, not a sauce to drown the peppers.
Thread five or six peppers onto each skewer, piercing through the thick shoulder just below the stem so they lie flat. Toss or brush them lightly with oil and sprinkle with salt. The oil helps the skin blister and shine; too much oil makes flare-ups and tastes heavy.
Set the skewers over a hot charcoal grill or a very hot grill pan. Cook for about two minutes per side, turning as the skins blister and spot with brown. Listen for a faint pop and watch the color. You want bright green peppers with blistered patches, not olive, wrinkled ones.
Serve them as they are with a final pinch of sea salt, or brush once with tare during the last thirty seconds on the grill and turn to set the gloss. Add the glaze late because the mirin and sugar burn quickly. Slide the skewers onto a plate with space around them and serve with a lemon or sudachi wedge if you like.
1 serving (about 55g)
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