Chef Graziella
Arancini alla Siciliana
Golden fried rice balls from Sicily, where Arab culinary influence meets Italian home cooking. The saffron-perfumed rice conceals a heart of slow-simmered ragù and sweet peas.
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Sciatt Valtellinesi
Created by
The 'little toads' of Valtellina, where buckwheat batter meets molten alpine cheese. Rustic mountain cooking that proves the Alps have their own genius, distinct from the rest of Italy.
Appetizers & Snacks
Italian, Lombard
Dinner Party
Comfort Food
30 min
Active Time
20 min cook•50 min total
Yield4 servings (about 20 fritters)
Sciatt means 'toads' in the dialect of Valtellina, and the name is apt. These fritters emerge from the oil lumpy and irregular, with the mottled brown color of creatures that live near mountain streams. They are not pretty. They are, however, perfect.
Valtellina sits in the far north of Lombardy, pressed against Switzerland, where buckwheat grows in terraced fields and alpine cattle produce the milk for Bitto cheese. The cooking here has nothing to do with the risottos of Milan or the filled pastas of Bergamo. It is mountain food, shaped by cold winters and what grows at altitude. Buckwheat is the foundation, as it is throughout this region, giving sciatt their distinctive earthy, slightly bitter character.
The technique is simple but demands attention. The batter must be thin enough to flow around the cheese but thick enough to hold it captive. The oil must be hot enough to seal the exterior quickly, trapping the cheese inside where it melts into strings. You eat them immediately, while the outside shatters and the inside pulls. They do not wait. They do not reheat. They exist for the moment between the fryer and your mouth.
Sciatt emerged from the agriturismos and mountain rifugi of Valtellina, where buckwheat cultivation dates to the 16th century. The dish showcases the marriage of grano saraceno with Bitto, an ancient cheese whose production is documented in valley records from the year 1500. These fritters were farmhouse food, made when cheese needed using and grappa flowed freely.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
buckwheat flour
Quantity
150g
all-purpose flour (tipo 00)
Quantity
50g
fine sea salt
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
cold sparkling water
Quantity
200ml
grappa
Quantity
30ml
Bitto cheese
Quantity
200g
cut into 1-inch cubes
vegetable oil
Quantity
about 1 liter
for frying
chicory or bitter greens
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| buckwheat flour | 150g |
| all-purpose flour (tipo 00) | 50g |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cold sparkling water | 200ml |
| grappa | 30ml |
| Bitto cheesecut into 1-inch cubes | 200g |
| vegetable oilfor frying | about 1 liter |
| chicory or bitter greens | for serving |
Equipment Needed
- •Heavy 4-quart Dutch oven or deep pot for frying
- •Deep-fry thermometer
- •Slotted spoon or spider
- •Wire rack or paper towels for draining
Instructions
- 1
Prepare the cheese
Cut the Bitto into cubes roughly one inch across. They need not be precise. Irregular shapes are traditional. Set them aside at room temperature while you make the batter. Cold cheese straight from the refrigerator will not melt properly in the brief time the fritter spends in the oil.
- 2
Mix the batter
In a bowl, whisk together the buckwheat flour, tipo 00 flour, and salt. Make a well in the center. Pour in the sparkling water and grappa. Whisk from the center outward, incorporating the flour gradually until you have a smooth batter the consistency of heavy cream. It should coat a spoon but flow easily off it. Let the batter rest for 15 minutes.
The sparkling water creates lightness in the batter. Still water produces a denser fritter. The grappa is not optional. It adds the mountain character that defines this dish. - 3
Heat the oil
Pour oil into a heavy pot or Dutch oven to a depth of at least three inches. Heat over medium-high until the oil reaches 180°C (356°F). Use a thermometer. Guessing will not serve you. Oil too cool produces greasy fritters. Oil too hot burns the exterior before the cheese melts.
- 4
Coat the cheese
Working in batches, drop the cheese cubes into the batter. Use a fork to turn them, ensuring each piece is completely coated. The batter should cling in an uneven layer. This is correct. You are making toads, not spheres.
- 5
Fry the sciatt
Lift each battered cheese cube with a fork and lower it carefully into the hot oil. Do not crowd the pot. Fry four or five at a time. They will sink, then rise. Turn them once or twice with a slotted spoon. They are done when deep golden brown and crisp all over, about 2 to 3 minutes. The timing matters. Longer and the cheese escapes. Shorter and the batter is pale and soft.
If the cheese breaks through the batter and leaks into the oil, your oil is not hot enough or your batter is too thin. Adjust before continuing. - 6
Drain and serve immediately
Transfer the finished sciatt to a plate lined with paper towels. Blot briefly. Season with a whisper of salt while hot. Serve within minutes on a bed of dressed bitter greens. The chicory's bite cuts through the richness of the cheese. Do not wait. Do not let them sit. A sciatt more than five minutes old is a disappointment.
Chef Tips
- •Bitto is the traditional cheese and worth seeking from Italian specialty shops. Casera, from the same valley, substitutes well. Fontina can work if you find neither, though the flavor will be less complex. American 'Italian blend' shredded cheese is not acceptable under any circumstances.
- •The proportion of buckwheat to white flour matters. All buckwheat produces a batter that is too dense and bitter. All white flour loses the character entirely. The ratio here is traditional.
- •Dress the chicory lightly with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon while the sciatt fry. The greens should be ready the moment the fritters are done.
- •In Valtellina, these are served with young Sforzato wine. Any robust alpine red works. The tannins balance the richness of the fried cheese.
Advance Preparation
- •The batter can be made up to 2 hours ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature and stir before using.
- •Cut the cheese in advance and keep covered at room temperature for up to 1 hour.
- •There is no reheating sciatt. They must be fried and eaten. This is not negotiable.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 125g)
Calories
465 calories
Total Fat
30 g
Saturated Fat
12 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
18 g
Cholesterol
45 mg
Sodium
440 mg
Total Carbohydrates
27 g
Dietary Fiber
3 g
Sugars
1 g
Protein
17 g
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