Baccalà Mantecato alla Veneziana

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Stand mixer with paddle attachment (or strong arm and wooden spoon)
• •Wide saucepan for poaching
• •Large mixing bowl

Instructions

1. 1

   Soak the salt cod properly

   Place the salt cod in a large bowl and cover with abundant cold water. Refrigerate for 48 to 72 hours, changing the water every 8 hours. The fish is ready when it has lost most of its salt but retains a pleasant savory quality. Taste a small piece after 48 hours. If it still bites sharply of salt, continue soaking.

   The soaking cannot be rushed. Under-soaked cod will be inedibly salty. Over-soaked cod becomes bland and waterlogged. This step determines the success of everything that follows.
2. 2

   Poach the fish gently

   Drain the soaked cod and place it in a wide saucepan. Add the milk, the bay leaf, and enough cold water to cover the fish by one inch. Bring slowly to a bare simmer over medium-low heat. The liquid should tremble, never boil. Poach for 20 to 25 minutes, until the fish flakes easily and is cooked through. The gentleness matters: boiling toughens the flesh.

3. 3

   Clean and flake the cod

   Remove the cod from the poaching liquid and let it cool until you can handle it. Discard the liquid, bay leaf, and any scum. While the fish is still warm, remove all skin and bones. Be thorough. Run your fingers over every piece. Even small bones will ruin the texture of the finished dish. Flake the flesh into a large bowl.

4. 4

   Begin the mantecatura

   Using a wooden spoon or, preferably, the paddle attachment of a stand mixer, begin beating the warm fish. Work vigorously. The fish will start to break down into fibers. After 2 to 3 minutes of constant beating, begin adding the olive oil in the thinnest possible stream, as you would for mayonnaise. Do not rush this. The fish must absorb each addition before you add more.

   The fish must be warm when you begin. Cold fish will not emulsify properly with the oil. If it has cooled too much, warm it gently in a bowl set over simmering water.
5. 5

   Achieve the proper texture

   Continue beating and adding oil until the mixture becomes pale, fluffy, and creamy. This takes 10 to 15 minutes by hand, 5 to 7 minutes in a stand mixer. The consistency should resemble thick, airy whipped cream. If it seems too dense, add a tablespoon of warm water and continue beating. If using garlic, add the minced paste now and beat to incorporate.

6. 6

   Season and rest

   Season with freshly ground white pepper. Taste carefully. The fish should need no salt if it was properly soaked, but correct if necessary. Fold in the parsley. Transfer to a serving bowl, cover, and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving. The flavors settle and unify during this time.

7. 7

   Serve properly

   Serve at room temperature, never cold. Refrigeration dulls the flavor and hardens the texture. Spread generously on slices of grilled polenta or crusty bread. In Venice, this is served as part of the cicchetti tradition, small bites taken standing at a bacaro with a glass of wine. The polenta should be warm. The contrast matters.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out thick center-cut pieces of salt cod, preferably from a fishmonger who specializes in preserved fish. The thin tail pieces are more difficult to work with and produce inferior results.
• •The olive oil must be mild and fruity, not peppery or bitter. A Ligurian or mild Sicilian oil works well. Aggressive Tuscan oils can overwhelm the fish.
• •If the mixture breaks or becomes oily, add a tablespoon of warm water and beat vigorously. It will come back together. Do not panic.
• •Traditional recipes omit the garlic entirely. If you include it, exercise the utmost restraint. A whisper, not a shout. The fish should taste of itself.

Advance Preparation

• •The salt cod must be soaked 48 to 72 hours in advance. Begin this process on Wednesday for a Saturday dinner party.
• •The finished baccalà mantecato can be made up to 24 hours ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature 1 hour before serving and beat briefly to restore the fluffy texture.
• •Polenta can be grilled several hours ahead and rewarmed in a hot oven just before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 95g)