
Chef Graziella
Arancini alla Siciliana
Golden fried rice balls from Sicily, where Arab culinary influence meets Italian home cooking. The saffron-perfumed rice conceals a heart of slow-simmered ragù and sweet peas.
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Grilled bread rubbed with garlic, crowned with ripe tomatoes, anointed with your finest oil. This is bruschetta as it exists in Italy, not the soggy appetizer Americans invented.
Bruschetta is grilled bread. That is all the word means. The tomatoes are a topping that came later, a happy marriage of charred bread and summer's best produce. Americans have turned it into something unrecognizable: cold, soggy bread buried under a mountain of tomatoes swimming in balsamic vinegar and enough garlic to ward off an army of vampires.
The garlic in proper bruschetta is not chopped, not minced, certainly not roasted into paste and spread like butter. You take a whole clove, cut it in half, and rub it once across the hot bread. The rough surface acts like a grater. What remains is perfume, not assault. The bread must be warm when you do this, or the garlic will not release its oils.
Your tomatoes must be ripe. Not supermarket tomatoes bred for shipping, hard and pink and tasteless. Ripe tomatoes, fragrant, yielding slightly when pressed, warm from the garden if you are fortunate. If your tomatoes are not in season, do not make this dish. Wait. There are other things to eat.
The word bruschetta derives from the Roman dialect verb 'bruscare,' meaning to roast over coals. Olive farmers in Tuscany and Lazio originally made it during the fall pressing to taste the new season's oil: bread grilled over embers, rubbed with garlic, drenched in just-pressed olio nuovo. The tomato topping arrived centuries later, once Italians overcame their suspicion of the strange New World fruit.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
at room temperature
Quantity
6 slices
cut 3/4-inch thick
Quantity
2
halved
Quantity
1/4 cup, plus more for drizzling
Quantity
8-10
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| ripe tomatoesat room temperature | 1 1/2 pounds |
| rustic Italian breadcut 3/4-inch thick | 6 slices |
| garlic cloveshalved | 2 |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/4 cup, plus more for drizzling |
| fresh basil leaves | 8-10 |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Core the tomatoes and cut them into small dice, roughly half-inch pieces. Place them in a bowl and season generously with salt. Let them sit for 10 to 15 minutes. The salt draws out moisture and intensifies flavor. Do not skip this step.
Heat a grill, grill pan, or broiler until very hot. Brush both sides of each bread slice lightly with olive oil. Grill until the bread is golden brown and marked with char on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. The bread should be crisp on the outside but still have some give within. Watch it carefully. Burned bread cannot be saved.
While the bread is still hot, take a halved garlic clove and rub the cut side once, firmly, across the surface of each slice. The rough, toasted surface of the bread acts as a grater. You will see the garlic diminish. One pass is enough. The garlic should whisper, not shout.
Drain any excess liquid from the tomatoes. Spoon the tomatoes generously onto each slice of bread. Tear the basil leaves and scatter over the top. Drizzle with your finest olive oil. Finish with a few flakes of sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve immediately. Bruschetta waits for no one. The bread softens within minutes.
1 serving (about 175g)
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