
Chef Graziella
Arancini alla Siciliana
Golden fried rice balls from Sicily, where Arab culinary influence meets Italian home cooking. The saffron-perfumed rice conceals a heart of slow-simmered ragù and sweet peas.
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The classic antipasto of Lombardy, where air-dried beef from the Alpine valleys meets peppery wild arugula and thin curls of aged cheese. Nothing more. Nothing less.
This is a dish that cannot be improved by adding to it. Three ingredients of quality, a simple dressing, and the restraint to stop there. The bresaola must be genuine, from Valtellina, where the dry mountain air has cured beef this way for centuries. The arugula must be peppery and fresh, preferably the small-leafed wild variety that bites back. The cheese must be aged and firm enough to shave into translucent curls.
Americans often want to complicate things. They want to add balsamic reduction, sun-dried tomatoes, capers, pine nuts. They miss the point entirely. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in. The bresaola is lean and delicate, almost sweet in its minerality. The arugula provides the heat. The cheese contributes salt and umami. The olive oil binds them. The lemon brightens. That is all you need.
This takes ten minutes to assemble if you work slowly, five if you do not. The difficulty is not in the technique. The difficulty is in finding ingredients worthy of such simplicity.
Bresaola originated in the Valtellina valley of northern Lombardy, where the cold, dry Alpine winds created ideal conditions for air-curing beef. The practice dates to at least the 15th century, when mountain families preserved meat through the harsh winters. The word likely derives from 'brisa,' the dialect term for the cold north wind that cures the meat, though some argue for 'brasa,' meaning embers, from an older smoking tradition.
Quantity
6 ounces
sliced paper-thin
Quantity
4 ounces
Quantity
3 ounces
in one piece for shaving
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bresaolasliced paper-thin | 6 ounces |
| wild arugula (rucola selvatica) | 4 ounces |
| Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggianoin one piece for shaving | 3 ounces |
| extra virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons |
| lemon | 1 |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
Remove the bresaola from the refrigerator 15 minutes before serving. Cold mutes flavor. Arrange the slices on a large serving platter or individual plates, overlapping them slightly in a single layer. The meat should cover the plate but not pile upon itself. You want each slice accessible to fork and knife.
Wash and dry the arugula thoroughly. Wet leaves dilute the dressing and make the salad soggy. Place the leaves in a loose mound over the bresaola, leaving some of the ruby-red meat visible at the edges. The arugula should look casual, not constructed.
Using a vegetable peeler, shave thin curls of cheese directly over the arugula. Let them fall where they will. You want irregular shavings, not uniform slices. The cheese should scatter across the greens, some curls catching in the leaves, others resting on top. Do not grate the cheese. The texture of whole shavings matters.
Drizzle the olive oil generously over the entire plate. Squeeze half the lemon over the salad, allowing the juice to mingle with the oil. Cut the remaining half into wedges for the table. Grind fresh black pepper over everything. Add a restrained scatter of flaky salt. Serve immediately.
1 serving (about 110g)
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