
Chef Klaus
Birnen, Bohnen und Speck
Schleswig-Holstein's sweet-salt bean pot, where small cooking pears go in whole beside Speck, smoked bacon, and the one rule is simple: keep the simmer low so the pears hold.
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A northern slaughter-day stew, dark from blood and sharp with vinegar, where pork trim, giblets, and dried fruit prove the old rule: nothing gets thrown away.
Schwarzsauer is northern table work, strongest in Mecklenburg, Schleswig-Holstein, Hamburg, and old Pomeranian kitchens. It belongs to slaughter day and the cold months, when the pig was broken down and every useful piece had to find its pot. Weggeworfen wird nichts, nothing gets thrown away. The shoulder trim, belly, heart, tongue, rind, bones, and blood all have a job here.
The regions argue in the usual way. Mecklenburg and Pomerania often bring dried pears or prunes into the pot, sweet against vinegar. Schleswig-Holstein keeps it plainer and sharper. Some houses made it from duck or goose blood at Martinmas, others from pork on butchering day. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders, and the south does not own this dish.
One technique decides whether Schwarzsauer works: the blood goes in tempered and off the boil. Boil it hard and it turns grainy, grey, and bitter. Whisk a little hot broth into the blood first so it warms gently, then stir it back into the pot and keep it just below a simmer. The blood thickens the broth like a dark custard, and the vinegar keeps the flavour clean instead of flat.
This is not pretty food in the shop-window sense. It is dark, glossy, sweet-sour, and useful. Serve it with boiled potatoes or rye bread, taste the salt after the blood goes in, and don't apologize for the pot.
Schwarzsauer is tied to the northern German slaughter day, when fresh blood had to be used at once or preserved with vinegar before it clotted. Written nineteenth-century household recipes from Mecklenburg, Schleswig-Holstein, and Pomerania record versions with pork, goose, or duck, often sharpened with vinegar and sweetened with dried pears or prunes from the winter larder. Its close relatives across the Baltic, including Polish czernina, show how blood, vinegar, and dried fruit belonged to a wider cold-climate kitchen built on preservation and no waste.
Quantity
800g
cut into 3cm pieces
Quantity
300g
cleaned and cut into large pieces
Quantity
1 trotter or 300g
Quantity
2
halved
Quantity
2
chopped
Quantity
1 small piece
chopped
Quantity
2
Quantity
8
Quantity
6
Quantity
3
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1.5 litres
Quantity
150g
Quantity
250ml
mixed with vinegar by the butcher
Quantity
3 tablespoons, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mixed pork shoulder and pork bellycut into 3cm pieces | 800g |
| pork heart or tonguecleaned and cut into large pieces | 300g |
| pig's trotter or pork bones and rind (optional) | 1 trotter or 300g |
| onionshalved | 2 |
| carrotschopped | 2 |
| celeriacchopped | 1 small piece |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| allspice berries | 8 |
| black peppercorns | 6 |
| whole cloves | 3 |
| dried marjoram | 1 teaspoon |
| cold water | 1.5 litres |
| dried pears or prunes | 150g |
| fresh pig's bloodmixed with vinegar by the butcher | 250ml |
| red wine vinegar | 3 tablespoons, plus more to taste |
| sugar or beet syrup | 1 tablespoon |
| salt and black pepper | to taste |
| boiled potatoes | to serve |
Put the pork, heart or tongue, trotter or bones if using, onions, carrots, celeriac, bay, allspice, peppercorns, cloves, marjoram, and cold water into a heavy pot. Start cold because the bones, rind, and trim give up gelatin slowly; throw them into boiling water and the outside tightens before the broth has taken what it needs.
Bring the pot just to a simmer, skim the grey foam, then lower the heat and cook gently for 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours, until the pork is tender and the heart or tongue cuts cleanly. Runter mit der Temperatur. A hard boil clouds the broth and toughens the lean offal before the belly has softened.
Lift out the meat and cut it into spoon-sized pieces, discarding only bones and spent aromatics. Return the meat to the strained broth, add the dried pears or prunes, vinegar, sugar or beet syrup, and a good pinch of salt. Simmer 20 minutes, so the fruit swells and gives the sour broth its dark sweetness instead of sitting in it like candy.
Turn the heat low. Whisk a ladle of hot broth into the pig's blood in a bowl, then whisk in a second ladle. Tempering warms the blood gently, so it thickens smooth when it reaches the pot; pour it in cold and it can seize into specks.
Stir the tempered blood back into the stew and keep it below a boil for 5 to 8 minutes, stirring often, until the broth turns dark, glossy, and lightly thick. Do not let it bubble hard. Boiled blood curdles, and then no speech from me will save it.
Taste only after the blood has thickened, then correct with salt, vinegar, and a little sugar until it sits sweet-sour and clean. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss: the final balance comes last because the blood and fruit change the broth. Serve with boiled potatoes or dark rye bread.
1 serving (about 520g)
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