
Chef Takumi
Butadon (豚丼, Obihiro grilled pork rice bowl)
A good butadon is pork, rice, and a tare that catches at the edge of the grill. The trick is not heaviness. It is timing.
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A thin cutlet, crisp from the oil, dipped once in dark sauce and laid over rice. Fukui sauce katsudon is direct food: no egg, no onion, nothing hidden.
The first surprise is what is missing. No beaten egg. No onion simmering around the cutlet. Fukui sauce katsudon is a bowl of rice, a thin pork cutlet, and a dark, sweet-sharp sauce that clings without drowning it.
This is not difficult work, only work that asks for attention at the right moment. Pound the pork thin so it cooks before the crust overbrowns. Fry it crisp, then dip it quickly while the coating is still open and thirsty. Leave it in the sauce too long and the crust turns heavy. A clean dip seasons the cutlet; a bath punishes it, which is also a useful rule for life if you are short of philosophy.
The sauce is the point, so make it with care. Worcestershire-style sauce gives tang and spice, soy sauce steadies it, mirin and sugar round the edge, and a little dashi keeps it in the Japanese bowl rather than drifting into mere brown sweetness. Set the cutlets on hot short-grain rice and serve at once. We want the rice to catch the sauce, not rescue a soggy crust.
Fukui's sauce katsudon is closely tied to Yōroppaken, founded by Takabatake Masutarō, who presented a sauce-dipped cutlet over rice in Tokyo in 1913 before the shop's Fukui branch made it a local standard. The Great Kantō Earthquake of 1923 helped shift the business center of the dish from Tokyo back to Fukui. Several regions, including Aizu in Fukushima and Komagane in Nagano, claim their own sauce katsudon traditions, but the Fukui version is known for thin cutlets dipped in sauce and served without egg.
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
2 (about 120g each)
trimmed and pounded thin
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
a few grinds
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1
beaten
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
for deep-frying
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 small pieces
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| freshly cooked Japanese short-grain rice | 2 cups |
| boneless pork loin cutletstrimmed and pounded thin | 2 (about 120g each) |
| sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| white pepper | a few grinds |
| all-purpose flour | 3 tablespoons |
| large eggbeaten | 1 |
| panko | 1 cup |
| neutral oil | for deep-frying |
| Japanese Worcestershire-style sauce | 1/3 cup |
| dashi | 2 tablespoons |
| soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| mirin | 1 tablespoon |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| sake | 1 teaspoon |
| shredded cabbage (optional) | 2 small pieces |
| karashi mustard (optional) | to serve |
Combine the Worcestershire-style sauce, dashi, soy sauce, mirin, sugar, and sake in a small pan. Bring it just to a simmer, stir until the sugar dissolves, then turn off the heat. The sauce should taste sharp first, then sweet and savory; the rice will soften it, so don't make it timid.
Pat the pork dry, then pound each cutlet to about 1/4 inch thick. Season both sides with salt and white pepper. Thin pork is the Fukui way, and it matters: the meat cooks quickly, so the panko can turn crisp and pale gold before the pork dries out.
Dredge each cutlet lightly in flour, tap off the excess, pass it through the beaten egg, then press it into the panko. Keep the coating even but not thick. Flour helps the egg grip, egg holds the crumbs, and the crumbs give you the surface that will drink the sauce for one brief moment.
Heat the oil to 170 C, or 340 F. Fry the cutlets one at a time until the coating is crisp and golden, about 2 minutes per side. Listen for the bubbling to quiet slightly; that tells you the surface moisture is leaving and the crust is setting. Drain on a rack, not paper, so the underside stays crisp.
While the cutlets are still hot, dip each one quickly into the warm sauce, turning once, then lift it out at once. Slice into broad strips if you like, or leave each thin cutlet whole in the Fukui manner. The quick dip is the detail that decides the bowl: enough sauce to season, not enough time to soften the crust.
Fill each donburi with hot rice, leaving room at the rim. Spoon a little sauce over the rice, then lay the cutlet on top. Add a small amount of shredded cabbage only if you want that local shop-counter feeling, and serve karashi on the side. Eat while the crust still has its bite and the rice is catching the dark sauce below.
1 serving (about 420g)
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