Fish-Cake and Egg Rice Bowl (木の葉丼, Konohadon)

Konohadon is a bowl built from slices. The kamaboko is cut thin, pale pink and white, and laid into the broth like little fallen leaves, which is what the name means. Nothing grand is being announced here. This is Kansai weeknight food: rice under a small simmer of dashi, fish cake, shiitake, scallion, and egg.

The first secret is the broth. It should taste a little too seasoned on its own, because the rice and egg will soften it. We use clear dashi, usukuchi shōyu, mirin, and a pinch of sugar, a Kansai hand that keeps the color light and the flavor clean. The kamaboko has already been cooked, so don't punish it. Warm it through and let it give its gentle sweetness to the stock.

The detail that decides the bowl is the egg. Beat it just enough that yellow and white still show in streaks, pour it over the simmering ingredients in two passes, and stop while the surface is still soft. If you wait until it looks fully cooked in the pan, it will be tired by the time it reaches the rice. Slide it on, leave the fish-cake leaves visible, and serve before the rice loses its heat. Honmono, yes, but not solemn. It is supper.