
Chef Jeong-sun
Bori-ppang (보리빵, Barley Steamed Bread)
A plain Korean market bread of barley flour and makgeolli, steamed into small dense rounds with a measured lift from yeast, gentle sweetness, and the earthiness older cooks knew too well.
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A pale wheat bun risen with makgeolli, filled with red bean, and steamed until the skin springs back, a Goryeo table memory made steady for a modern home kitchen.
Do not let the modern hoppang crowd this old bun out of its own name. Sanghwabyeong is its elder: wheat dough raised with rice wine, filled, rounded by hand, and cooked for a table that had reason to pause. Wheat was not everyday flour in old Korea. That alone tells you this was occasion food, not something grabbed in a paper sleeve on the way home.
Master Seong-nyeo taught it from records and from dough, which is the only way an old recipe becomes food again. She made me smell the makgeolli, then weigh it. A lively bottle gives the dough a small sour sweetness; measured yeast keeps the promise when the bottle is weak. 손맛 is real; I measure it anyway.
The old records don't hand us one neat red-bean formula. They hand us a method: wheat dough, rice wine, a filling, a covered pot. I use pat (red beans) because it belongs naturally to Korean holiday sweets and because it teaches the filling properly. Keep it thick and cool, or it tears through the dough. Pinch the seam closed firmly. Don't lift the lid while the buns cook. The dough is pale, so color won't tell you. Touch will: it should spring back gently and feel light in the hand.
Sanghwa appears in the Goryeo song "Ssanghwajeom," preserved in the 1493 Akhak Gwebeom, where a woman goes to a sanghwa shop run by a Huihui Muslim merchant. The reference fits the Goryeo world of the 1200s and 1300s, when contact with Yuan China and Central and West Asian merchants brought wheat foods into Gaegyeong's markets and court hospitality, including foods prepared for visiting envoys. Later jjinppang and makgeolli bread are not identical to sanghwabyeong, but they carry the same structure forward: fermented wheat dough, a filling, and cooking over water in a covered vessel.
Quantity
200g
rinsed
Quantity
1.5 liters, divided, plus 120ml hot water if needed
Quantity
100g (1/2 cup)
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
360g
plus more for dusting
Quantity
35g (about 3 tablespoons)
Quantity
5g (1 teaspoon)
Quantity
6g (2 teaspoons)
Quantity
150ml
shaken and at room temperature
Quantity
90ml
38 to 40 C
Quantity
1 tablespoon, plus 1 teaspoon for the bowl
Quantity
10, about 4 inches each
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried red beans (pat)rinsed | 200g |
| water | 1.5 liters, divided, plus 120ml hot water if needed |
| sugar for the red bean filling | 100g (1/2 cup) |
| fine sea salt for the red bean filling | 1/4 teaspoon |
| jocheong (rice syrup) or honey (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
| all-purpose flourplus more for dusting | 360g |
| sugar for the dough | 35g (about 3 tablespoons) |
| fine sea salt for the dough | 5g (1 teaspoon) |
| instant yeast | 6g (2 teaspoons) |
| plain makgeolli (Korean rice wine)shaken and at room temperature | 150ml |
| warm water38 to 40 C | 90ml |
| neutral oil | 1 tablespoon, plus 1 teaspoon for the bowl |
| parchment squares | 10, about 4 inches each |
Put the red beans in a pot with 600ml of the water and bring to a boil. Boil 5 minutes, then drain and rinse the beans. That first water carries the harsh, dusty taste people blame on red bean paste. Throw it away without regret.
Return the beans to the pot with the remaining 900ml water. Simmer 55 to 70 minutes, until a bean crushes easily between your fingers. If the beans rise above the liquid before they soften, add 120ml hot water, not cold water, so the cooking does not stall. Drain, reserving 60ml of the cooking liquid.
Mash the beans while warm, then stir in the 100g sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and the jocheong if using. Cook over medium-low heat 6 to 8 minutes, stirring constantly, until a spoon dragged across the pot leaves a clean path for 2 seconds. The paste should weigh about 480 to 500g and hold its shape in a mound. Cool it completely before filling the buns.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, 35g sugar, 5g salt, and instant yeast. In a separate cup, stir together the makgeolli, warm water, and 1 tablespoon oil. Pour the liquid into the flour and mix until no dry patches remain. Makgeolli brings flavor and a little acidity; the measured yeast keeps the rise steady in a home kitchen.
Knead by hand for 8 to 10 minutes, or in a stand mixer on low for 6 minutes, until the dough is smooth, elastic, and just tacky. Oil the bowl with the remaining 1 teaspoon oil, set the dough inside, cover, and let it rise at warm room temperature until doubled, 60 to 90 minutes. Press a floured finger into the dough; the dent should fill back slowly.
Divide the cooled red bean filling into 10 balls of 45g each. Divide the dough into 10 balls of about 65g each. Keep both covered while you work. Weighing matters here because uneven buns cook unevenly, and an overfilled bun splits no matter how pretty your pleats are.
Flatten one dough ball into an 11cm round, keeping the center slightly thicker than the edge. Set one red bean ball in the middle, bring the edges up around it, and pinch firmly to seal. Twist the seam once, set the bun seam-side down on a parchment square, and cup it gently with both hands to make it round. The thicker center protects the top from tearing; the thinner edge gives you enough dough to close the bottom cleanly.
Set the shaped buns on their parchment squares, leaving room between them, and cover lightly. Let them rest 30 to 40 minutes, until puffed by about half, not doubled. Touch one lightly; it should feel airy but still resilient. Underproofed buns crack. Overproofed buns wrinkle. This is where the old recipe asks you to watch.
Bring 5cm of water to a steady boil in a steamer pot. Wrap the lid in a clean kitchen towel and tie it up away from the flame or burner, so water droplets do not fall onto the bun skins. Arrange the buns at least 4cm apart in the basket or rack. They need room to expand without touching.
Cover and steam the buns over medium-high heat for 14 minutes. Do not lift the lid during the first 12 minutes; cold air collapses the skin before the structure sets. Turn off the heat and leave the lid closed for 3 minutes, then crack it open 1cm for 2 minutes before uncovering fully. That slow release keeps the buns round.
Serve the sanghwabyeong warm, while the skin is soft and the red bean filling is settled. Tear one open instead of cutting it first. You should see an even ring of pale bread around the filling, not a thin top and a heavy bottom. Write down the makgeolli brand and the proofing time that worked in your kitchen. Memory is a borrowed bowl.
1 serving (about 120g)
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