
Chef Jeong-sun
Bori-ppang (보리빵, Barley Steamed Bread)
A plain Korean market bread of barley flour and makgeolli, steamed into small dense rounds with a measured lift from yeast, gentle sweetness, and the earthiness older cooks knew too well.
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A porous, gently sour rice cake fermented with makgeolli and steamed until tender, the summer tteok made ahead for special tables because it keeps better than most rice cakes.
Jeungpyeon lives or dies by fermentation. Not sweetness. Not the garnish. The batter has to rise on makgeolli (Korean rice wine) until it looks awake: swollen, dotted with tiny bubbles, and faintly sour enough that the finished cake tastes clean instead of flat.
My teacher made us watch the bowl more than the clock. 눈동냥, 귀동냥, borrowing with the eyes and ears. In a warm room it might be ready in three hours; in a cool kitchen it can take six. If you steam too early, the cake is dense and sulky. If you wait too long, the sourness runs ahead of the rice. I give you the timing, but I want you to learn the surface.
This is a summer tteok, a steamed rice cake for days when other rice cakes stale quickly in the heat. It belongs on a special table, but it is not difficult if you respect the waiting. Use wet rice flour made for tteok if your market sells it. If not, use finely milled sweet rice flour and regular rice flour together, and weigh them. 손맛 is real. I still measure it, so it can be handed on.
Tonight the dish asks for patience, a warm corner, and a steamer that does not drip water onto the batter. The reward is a pale, springy cake with small even holes, jujube red on top, pine nuts tucked in like someone cared enough to finish the job properly.
Jeungpyeon is an old fermented tteok recorded in Joseon-period food texts under names such as jeungbyeong and gijeungbyeong, made by fermenting rice flour batter with alcohol before steaming. Because fermentation helps the cake stay soft longer than many plain rice cakes, it became especially associated with summer occasions and travel food. Regional and household versions differ in the fermenting agent, with makgeolli common today and older recipes sometimes using nuruk-based liquor or fermented rice wine.
Quantity
200g
sifted
Quantity
140g rice flour plus 60g sweet rice flour
Quantity
40g
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
120ml
unpasteurized if possible
Quantity
80ml
about 38 C
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for greasing
Quantity
2
pitted and thinly sliced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
dark tips removed
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| wet rice flour for tteoksifted | 200g |
| rice flour and sweet rice flour substitute (optional) | 140g rice flour plus 60g sweet rice flour |
| sugar | 40g |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fresh makgeolli (Korean rice wine)unpasteurized if possible | 120ml |
| warm waterabout 38 C | 80ml |
| neutral oilfor greasing | 1 teaspoon |
| dried jujubespitted and thinly sliced | 2 |
| pine nutsdark tips removed | 1 tablespoon |
| black sesame seeds (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
Set out 12 small heatproof cups, silicone muffin cups, or a 20 cm shallow cake tin. Grease lightly with neutral oil. Line the steamer lid with a clean kitchen towel and tie the corners up so they cannot sag into the cakes. Jeungpyeon hates dripping water; one careless lid can pockmark the whole surface.
Sift the rice flour into a bowl, then whisk in the sugar and salt. Stir the makgeolli and warm water together, then pour them into the flour in two additions. Whisk until the batter is smooth and thick like pourable yogurt. Scrape the bowl well, because dry rice flour hiding at the bottom gives you hard white flecks after steaming.
Cover the bowl and leave it in a warm place, 26 to 30 C, for 3 to 5 hours. The batter should increase by about half, show many small bubbles across the top, and smell lightly of rice wine. Stir it down once after the first rise, then let it rise again for 30 to 45 minutes. This second rise gives a finer, more even crumb.
Stir the batter gently 5 or 6 times to even it out without knocking all the life from it. Fill each cup about 70 percent full, or spread the batter in the prepared tin. Lay two or three jujube slices and a few pine nuts on each small cake, or scatter them evenly over the large one. Do not bury the garnish; it should sit on the surface where it can be seen.
Bring the steamer water to a strong boil, then set in the filled cups. Cover with the towel-lined lid and steam over medium-high heat for 18 to 20 minutes for small cakes, or 25 to 28 minutes for one large cake. Do not peek for the first 15 minutes. The trapped heat sets the rise, and opening the lid early makes the tops collapse.
Turn off the heat and let the cakes sit covered for 3 minutes, then uncover away from the cakes so condensed water does not fall back on them. Cool until warm, loosen the edges, and lift them out. The texture should be springy and porous, with small even holes and a faint makgeolli tang. Serve the same day, or cool completely for storage.
1 serving (about 38g)
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