San Simon da Costa with Rye Bread and Quince

San Simon da Costa is Galicia's smoked cow cheese, from Terra Cha in Lugo, and it doesn't need dressing up. Its shape gives it away first, a smooth little cone with a rounded top, then the amber rind and the soft smell of birch smoke. Inside it should be buttery, pale, and mild, not sharp and not harsh.

The method that decides this dish is restraint. Let the cheese come out of the cold, but don't leave it sweating on the table. Slice it thin so the smoke doesn't bully the milk, and serve it with bread that has a little backbone, pan de centeo, Galician rye bread, if you can get it. Quince, walnuts, and a thread of honey are enough. More than that and you're hiding the cheese, which is foolish after you've paid for a good one.

If you're far from Galicia, look first for another lightly smoked cow's milk cheese. If you use smoked Idiazabal, know what changes: it is Basque and usually sheep's milk, firmer and sharper, so slice it thinner and use less honey. No hace falta haber pisado Espana. Buy the best cheese you can, weigh it, slice it, and leave it alone. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.