
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Katsiki sti Souvla (Κατσίκι στη Σούβλα)
Aegean Easter goat on the spit, lean and full-flavored, turned slowly over charcoal and basted with lemon, oregano, garlic, and good olive oil.
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Roumeli kontosouvli is lamb cut big, marinated simply, and turned over coals until the edges char and the center stays juicy. Cut it small and you've lost the dish.
Kontosouvli belongs to Roumeli and the mountain table of Central Greece, where celebration meat goes over coals in pieces large enough to stay alive inside. The word says it plainly: konto souvli, the short spit. It isn't souvlaki made bigger for drama. It is its own thing, lamb shoulder cut in heavy chunks, scented with oregano, wine, lemon, garlic, and olive oil, then turned until the fat shines and the edges catch black.
The cut is the whole lesson. Keep the lamb in pieces of 5-6cm, with a little fat left on them, because the outside needs time to brown before the center is done. Make them small and they dry out while you're waiting for color. Make them big, press them close on the spit, and the meat protects itself. Good olive oil, and patience.
I record the Roumeli lamb version here, because the region is the dish's surname. Pork kontosouvli is common in tavernas, and beef appears in some butcher counters now, but lamb shoulder is the meat I trust for a home cook who wants the old feast table without a whole animal on the spit. Nothing clever is needed. The coals do the work if you don't rush them.
Kontosouvli developed as the smaller, more practical relative of whole-animal spit roasting in mainland Greece, especially Roumeli, Thessaly, and Epirus, where lamb, kid, and pork were tied to feast days and outdoor cooking. Its name means short spit, separating it from both souvlaki, with its small quick-cooking pieces, and the Easter whole lamb, which belongs to a different scale of ritual. In modern grill houses the dish spread across Greece, but the older logic stayed the same: large pieces, slow turning, and charcoal heat.
Quantity
1.8kg
cut into 5-6cm chunks
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
5
grated
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
18g
Quantity
2
crumbled
Quantity
2
cut into thick wedges
Quantity
2
cut into wide pieces
Quantity
3
halved, for serving
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless lamb shouldercut into 5-6cm chunks | 1.8kg |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oil | 120ml |
| dry white wine | 80ml |
| fresh lemon juice | 60ml |
| red wine vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| garlic clovesgrated | 5 |
| dried Greek oregano | 2 tablespoons |
| sweet paprika | 2 teaspoons |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 18g |
| bay leavescrumbled | 2 |
| large onionscut into thick wedges | 2 |
| large green pepperscut into wide pieces | 2 |
| lemonshalved, for serving | 3 |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)chopped | 1 tablespoon |
Cut the lamb shoulder into large 5-6cm chunks, leaving a little fat attached. This is the step that decides kontosouvli. Small cubes dry before the middle cooks; big pieces give you char outside and meat still juicy within. Put the meat in a wide nonreactive bowl.
Whisk together the olive oil, wine, lemon juice, vinegar, grated garlic, oregano, paprika, black pepper, salt, and crumbled bay leaves. Pour it over the lamb and turn the pieces with your hands until every surface is coated.
Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight. Turn the meat once if you remember. The wine and lemon should scent the lamb, not cook it pale and tight, so don't leave it more than 24 hours.
Light hardwood charcoal and let it burn down until the coals are glowing and covered with gray ash. Set the grill for medium, steady heat, with a cooler side for moving the spit if the fat flares. You want a patient fire, not flames licking the meat.
Take the lamb out of the refrigerator 45 minutes before cooking. Thread the pieces tightly onto a long metal skewer or rotisserie spit, alternating now and then with onion and green pepper. Press the meat together so the chunks protect each other, but don't crush them into a solid log.
Set the spit over the coals and turn steadily, either by rotisserie motor or by hand. Cook for 70-90 minutes, brushing twice with marinade during the first half only. The edges should be deeply browned and charred in places, with the fat glossy and the meat firm but still yielding when pressed.
Move the kontosouvli to a board and rest it for 10 minutes. Slide the meat off the spit, cut the largest pieces into thick slices, and squeeze lemon over everything. Scatter with parsley if you like, then serve hot with bread, potatoes, tzatziki, or a sharp cabbage salad.
1 serving (about 300g)
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