Attica Taverna Biftekia (Μπιφτέκια σχάρας)

Attica taverna biftekia are the grilled patties of Athens and Piraeus, the ones that come off the coals browned hard at the edges and soft in the middle. They are not keftedes. They are larger, flatter, usually grilled rather than fried, and the seasoning is spare: onion, oregano, parsley, a little garlic, and good meat with enough fat to forgive the fire.

The whole dish rests on the bread. Soak stale country bread first, squeeze it lightly, then crumble it into the mince before you shape the patties. That softened crumb traps the onion juices and keeps the meat tender while the outside chars. Skip it and you'll still have meat on the grill, yes, but not biftekia worth writing down.

I use beef with lamb here because that is the taverna taste I know from northern and southern Greece both, but all-beef is also common in Athens homes. The region is the dish's surname, and this is the Attica grill version: plain, smoky, generous, made for a Tuesday night or a table under hard white light with lemon wedges waiting.