
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Katsiki sti Souvla (Κατσίκι στη Σούβλα)
Aegean Easter goat on the spit, lean and full-flavored, turned slowly over charcoal and basted with lemon, oregano, garlic, and good olive oil.
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Attica's beef steak belongs to the hasapotaverna grill: thick-cut beef, fierce charcoal, no marinade, and a clean finish of oregano, lemon, salt, and olive oil.
Attiki moscharisia brizola is the beef steak of the hasapotaverna, the butcher-taverna of Athens and Piraeus, where the grill works harder than the menu. It is not a sauced dish. It is thick-cut beef over fierce coals, dressed only after the fire has done its work: salt, oregano, lemon, and good olive oil.
The one method that decides it is the rest. Greek cooks argue about lemon, oregano, and whether the potatoes should be fried twice, but the meat needs those quiet 8 minutes off the heat. Cut too soon and the juices leave the steak for the platter. Wait, and they settle back through the fibres, so every slice tastes of beef instead of apology.
I don't marinate this brizola. A marinade would move it toward something else, and this dish is plain on purpose. Your job is to buy a decent bone-in steak, dry it well, grill it hot, and finish it cleanly. The region is the dish's surname, and here that surname is the urban grill of Attica.
Brizola comes from the Italian braciola, a word that entered Greek food language through long contact with Venetian and Italian cooking, but the charcoal-grilled beef steak became especially visible in the butcher-tavernas of Athens and Piraeus in the 20th century. Older Greek meat cookery leaned more often on lamb, goat, and stewed beef; the thick grilled beef steak belongs to the urban grill house, where customers chose meat by the cut and ate it simply cooked over coals.
Quantity
4, about 350g each
3cm thick
Quantity
12g
Quantity
4g
Quantity
40ml
plus more for finishing
Quantity
2 teaspoons
rubbed between your fingers
Quantity
2
halved
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in beef rib steaks (moscharisies brizoles)3cm thick | 4, about 350g each |
| fine sea salt | 12g |
| freshly ground black pepper | 4g |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oilplus more for finishing | 40ml |
| dried Greek oregano (rigani)rubbed between your fingers | 2 teaspoons |
| lemonshalved | 2 |
| flaky sea saltfor finishing | 1 teaspoon |
Pat the steaks very dry. Salt both sides with the fine sea salt and leave them uncovered at room temperature for 30 minutes while you light the coals. The surface must be dry before it meets the fire, or the steak steams first and browns late.
Build a fierce charcoal fire and let the coals turn gray at the edges while still throwing strong heat. Set the grill grate low, brush it clean, and oil it lightly. You want the hand-over-fire test to feel too hot after 2 seconds.
Rub the steaks with 40ml olive oil, then season with black pepper. Keep the oregano for the end. Burnt oregano turns bitter, and then no lemon can save it.
Lay the steaks over the hottest coals and grill for 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium-rare, turning once. For medium, give them 4 to 5 minutes per side. The outside should be deeply browned with clean char at the fat edge, while the meat still springs under your finger.
Move the steaks to a warm platter and rest them for 8 minutes. This is the method that decides the dish: rest it off the heat so the juices settle through the meat instead of running across the board. Finish with flaky salt, rubbed oregano, lemon juice, and a thin thread of olive oil.
Serve the brizoles whole, with lemon halves on the plate and the resting juices spooned back over the meat. Add fried potatoes, a horiatiki without lettuce in summer, or bitter greens with lemon. Λίγα και καλά: beef, fire, oil, oregano, salt.
1 serving (about 240g)
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