
Chef Ally
Anchoïade with Seasonal Crudités
A pungent, silky Provençal dip of pounded anchovies and garlic, surrounded by whatever crisp vegetables the market offered that morning. Simple food that rewards good sourcing.
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Sweet peppers blistered over flame, their skins slipped away to reveal silky flesh, paired with tangy local chèvre on grilled bread rubbed with garlic. This is summer on a crostini.
Start with the peppers. At the height of summer, you will find them at the market in impossible colors: deep crimson, sunset orange, butter yellow. They should feel heavy for their size and smell faintly sweet even through the skin. That is ripeness. That is what you are looking for.
Roasting peppers over an open flame is one of the oldest kitchen techniques, and one of the simplest. The fire blisters the skin and concentrates the sugars inside. You end up with something silky, smoky, and deeply sweet. It takes almost no effort if the ingredient is right.
The goat cheese here should come from someone you can name, or at least a region you recognize. Good chèvre has a bright tang that cuts through the sweetness of the peppers. Together on warm, garlicky bread, they become something greater than their parts. This is the kind of appetizer I would set out at Chez Panisse, food that tastes like a specific place and moment in time.
Every meal is a meaningful choice. These crostini are proof that perfect ingredients need almost nothing done to them.
Quantity
3 large
preferably a mix of red, yellow, and orange
Quantity
4 ounces
at room temperature
Quantity
1
cut into 1/2-inch slices on the bias
Quantity
3 tablespoons, plus more for drizzling
Quantity
1 small
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
for finishing
small or torn
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| sweet pepperspreferably a mix of red, yellow, and orange | 3 large |
| fresh goat cheese (chèvre)at room temperature | 4 ounces |
| baguettecut into 1/2-inch slices on the bias | 1 |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons, plus more for drizzling |
| garlic clove | 1 small |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| fresh basil leavessmall or torn | for finishing |
Set your peppers directly over an open gas flame, or place them on a sheet pan under a hot broiler. Turn them as the skin blackens and blisters, about three to four minutes per side. You want the skin charred in spots but not the flesh beneath. The peppers should collapse slightly and smell sweet and smoky.
Transfer the charred peppers to a bowl and cover tightly with a plate or plastic wrap. Let them steam for ten minutes. The trapped heat loosens the skins. When cool enough to handle, slip the skins off with your fingers. Do not rinse them under water. You will wash away all that hard-won flavor.
Remove the stems and seeds from the peppers. Slice the flesh into strips about half an inch wide. Toss them gently with a tablespoon of olive oil, a pinch of flaky salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Taste one. If the peppers are good, they will be sweet and faintly smoky, needing almost nothing.
Brush both sides of each baguette slice with olive oil. Grill over medium heat or toast in a hot cast iron pan until golden with distinct char marks, about two minutes per side. While still warm, rub one side of each slice with the cut garlic clove. The rough surface acts like a grater, leaving behind just a whisper of garlic.
Spread a generous layer of room temperature goat cheese on each warm crostini, about a tablespoon per slice. The cheese should be soft enough to spread without tearing the bread. Arrange two or three pepper strips on top, letting them drape naturally. Finish with a drizzle of your best olive oil, a pinch of flaky salt, and a small basil leaf or two.
Arrange the crostini on a wooden board or simple platter. Serve at room temperature within an hour of assembling. These are meant to be eaten with your hands, standing in the kitchen or gathered around a long table with friends.
1 serving (about 65g)
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