
Chef Ally
Anchoïade with Seasonal Crudités
A pungent, silky Provençal dip of pounded anchovies and garlic, surrounded by whatever crisp vegetables the market offered that morning. Simple food that rewards good sourcing.
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Tender butter lettuce leaves cupped around the best of the spring market: sweet peas, crisp radishes, shaved fennel, all dressed simply with good olive oil and lemon.
The lettuce is the plate. That is the whole idea here. You find butter lettuce with leaves so tender they fold around whatever you put inside, and then you fill them with whatever looks most alive at the market that morning.
I have made these cups a hundred different ways depending on the season. Spring brings peas and radishes and the first tender herbs. Summer offers shaved summer squash and cherry tomatoes still warm from the field. Fall might mean roasted beets and persimmons. The vessel stays the same. What changes is what the land is giving.
This is not a recipe so much as a way of thinking. You start with perfect lettuce, the kind that costs a little more because someone grew it with care. You add vegetables cut thin enough to eat raw, dressed with nothing more than good oil and citrus. You let things taste of what they are. Every meal is a meaningful choice, and this one says: I went to the market. I paid attention. I brought home the best I could find.
Quantity
2 heads
leaves separated and kept whole
Quantity
1 cup shelled (about 1 pound in pods)
Quantity
1 cup
strings removed and thinly sliced
Quantity
4 small
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 small
cored and thinly shaved
Quantity
1/2 cup
chervil, dill, mint, or a mix
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| butter lettuceleaves separated and kept whole | 2 heads |
| English peas | 1 cup shelled (about 1 pound in pods) |
| sugar snap peasstrings removed and thinly sliced | 1 cup |
| radishesthinly sliced | 4 small |
| fennel bulbcored and thinly shaved | 1 small |
| fresh herbschervil, dill, mint, or a mix | 1/2 cup |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/4 cup |
| fresh lemon juice | 2 tablespoons |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
Start with lettuce that feels heavy for its size, with leaves that spring back when you press the head gently. Separate the leaves carefully from the core, keeping them whole. The outer leaves make generous cups; the inner hearts are more delicate and tender. Wash in cold water, then dry thoroughly. Wet leaves will not hold a dressing.
Shell the English peas into a bowl. If they are truly fresh, just picked, taste one raw. It should be sweet and grassy. Slice the sugar snaps thin on a bias so they show their pale interior. Shave the radishes into coins so thin you can nearly see through them. Use a mandoline or a very sharp knife for the fennel, cutting it paper-thin so it loses its fierceness and becomes sweet.
Combine all the prepared vegetables in a bowl. Add the olive oil and lemon juice. Toss gently with your hands, lifting and turning rather than stirring. Season with salt and pepper. Taste. The vegetables should taste bright and alive, not drowned. The oil is there to carry the lemon and salt, not to coat.
Arrange the lettuce leaves on a platter, cupped sides facing up. They should look like little boats waiting to be filled. Spoon the dressed vegetables into each cup, letting them tumble naturally. Do not pack them tight. Scatter the fresh herbs over everything at the end so they stay perky and fragrant.
Drizzle a little more olive oil over the filled cups if you like. Add a final pinch of flaky salt. Serve immediately while the lettuce is still crisp and the vegetables still have their aliveness. These do not wait.
1 serving (about 140g)
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