
Chef Ally
Anchoïade with Seasonal Crudités
A pungent, silky Provençal dip of pounded anchovies and garlic, surrounded by whatever crisp vegetables the market offered that morning. Simple food that rewards good sourcing.
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Tender baby artichokes braised slowly in good olive oil until they yield to a fork, brightened with lemon and sea salt, nothing more. This is what spring tastes like when you let the ingredient lead.
The artichoke is a thistle. People forget this. It grows wild along the California coast, and when you find the babies in spring, small enough to fit in your palm, they are one of the purest pleasures the season offers.
Baby artichokes have not yet developed the fuzzy choke that makes their larger siblings so labor-intensive. You trim them, braise them gently in olive oil, and they become silky and sweet. The technique is almost nothing. The sourcing is everything.
Find a farmer who grows them. Ask when they were picked. They should feel heavy and tight, with leaves that squeak when you press them together. If the outer leaves look dry or have started to spread open, the artichoke is tired. Wait for the next market day.
Every meal is a meaningful choice. When you buy these from someone who grew them, you keep that farm alive. You also get to taste what an artichoke is supposed to taste like: nutty, faintly sweet, with a mineral quality that disappears entirely once it has traveled too far.
Quantity
2 pounds (about 16 small)
Quantity
2
divided
Quantity
1/2 cup, plus more for finishing
Quantity
4
smashed
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
2 sprigs
Quantity
1
Quantity
2 tablespoons
roughly chopped
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| baby artichokes | 2 pounds (about 16 small) |
| lemonsdivided | 2 |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 1/2 cup, plus more for finishing |
| garlic clovessmashed | 4 |
| dry white wine | 1/2 cup |
| water or light vegetable stock | 1 cup |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fresh thyme | 2 sprigs |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleyroughly chopped | 2 tablespoons |
| flaky sea salt | for finishing |
Fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze in the juice of one lemon. Drop in the squeezed lemon halves. This prevents the artichokes from browning the moment you cut them. Work quickly, but do not rush. The artichokes are patient.
Snap off the dark outer leaves until you reach the pale yellow-green heart. They release easily when you pull down and away. Cut about half an inch from the top to remove the thorny tips. Trim the stem, leaving about an inch attached, then peel the tough outer layer with a vegetable peeler. Halve each artichoke lengthwise and drop immediately into the lemon water.
Pour the olive oil into a large, heavy skillet or braiser with a lid. Set it over medium-low heat. Add the smashed garlic cloves and let them warm gently in the oil until fragrant and just barely golden, about three minutes. You are not frying the garlic. You are infusing the oil.
Drain the artichokes well and pat them dry with a clean towel. Wet artichokes will spatter in hot oil. Add them to the skillet cut-side down in a single layer. Let them sizzle gently for three to four minutes until the cut sides turn golden. The kitchen should smell green and alive.
Pour in the white wine. It will bubble and steam. Add the water or stock, salt, pepper, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf. The liquid should come about halfway up the artichokes. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cover and reduce heat to low. Braise for twenty to twenty-five minutes, turning once, until a knife slides easily into the thickest part of the heart.
Remove the lid and increase heat to medium. Let the braising liquid reduce by half, about five minutes, basting the artichokes occasionally. The sauce will thicken slightly and coat the artichokes with a glossy sheen. Remove thyme stems and bay leaf.
Transfer the artichokes to a warm serving platter, cut-side up. Squeeze the juice of half the remaining lemon over them. Taste. Add more if the dish needs it. The lemon should wake everything up without shouting. Drizzle with fresh olive oil, scatter the parsley, and finish with flaky sea salt. Serve warm or at room temperature.
1 serving (about 160g)
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