
Chef Ally
Anchoïade with Seasonal Crudités
A pungent, silky Provençal dip of pounded anchovies and garlic, surrounded by whatever crisp vegetables the market offered that morning. Simple food that rewards good sourcing.
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Small fingerling potatoes roasted until their skins crackle, split open and crowned with cool crème fraîche and a shower of fresh chives. Three ingredients. No tricks. Just honest food.
Start with the potatoes. Fingerlings from a farmer who cares will have thin skins that blister beautifully and waxy flesh that turns creamy in a hot oven. These are not the potatoes from a warehouse. They should smell faintly of earth when you bring them home.
The technique here is restraint. Roast them whole until they crackle. Split them open. Add cold crème fraîche and fresh chives. That is all. Perfect ingredients need almost nothing done to them.
I learned this lesson in Brittany, at a farmhouse table where the cook brought out a bowl of potatoes from her garden. She had roasted them simply and served them with butter and herbs. The diners applauded. Not for technique. For the potato itself. Your choices shape the food system, and a potato this good is worth seeking out.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
3/4 teaspoon, plus more for finishing
Quantity
1/2 cup
cold
Quantity
2 tablespoons
finely snipped
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small fingerling potatoes | 1 1/2 pounds |
| good olive oil | 3 tablespoons |
| flaky sea salt | 3/4 teaspoon, plus more for finishing |
| crème fraîchecold | 1/2 cup |
| fresh chivesfinely snipped | 2 tablespoons |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
Look for fingerlings that are firm, smooth, and roughly the same size. The best ones feel heavy for their size and have thin, unblemished skins. Rinse them under cold water and dry thoroughly with a clean towel. Moisture is the enemy of crisp skin.
Preheat your oven to 425F. Toss the dry potatoes with olive oil and salt in a large bowl, using your hands to coat each one evenly. The oil should glisten on the skins without pooling at the bottom of the bowl.
Spread the potatoes in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, leaving space between each one. Crowding steams them instead of roasting them. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes, shaking the pan once halfway through, until the skins are blistered and crackling and a knife slides easily into the center.
Transfer the hot potatoes to a cutting board. Working quickly while they are still warm, use a small knife to split each potato lengthwise, cutting about three-quarters of the way through. Gently press the ends toward each other to open the potato and expose the creamy interior. The steam escaping is your signal.
Arrange the split potatoes on a warm platter. Drop a small spoonful of cold crème fraîche into each opening. The contrast of temperatures is the whole point: warm, earthy potato against cool, tangy cream. Scatter the chives generously over everything. Finish with a pinch of flaky salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Serve immediately.
1 serving (about 125g)
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