
Chef Ally
Beef Bourguignon
Humble beef transformed by good red wine, patience, and the kind of slow cooking that fills a house with warmth and brings everyone to the table asking when dinner will be ready.
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Rigatoni wrapped in a blush-pink sauce of crushed tomatoes, cream, and a splash of vodka that coaxes out flavors no other ingredient can reach. Silky, bright, and deeply satisfying.
Start with the tomatoes. San Marzanos from the volcanic soils near Mount Vesuvius have a sweetness and low acidity that no other canned tomato matches. Crush them by hand into the pot. You will feel the texture, the seeds, the flesh. This connection matters. Canned tomatoes picked at peak ripeness in August are better than pale, mealy fresh tomatoes shipped from somewhere far away in February.
The vodka is not a gimmick. It unlocks flavor compounds in tomatoes that are alcohol-soluble, neither fat nor water can reach them. The sauce tastes brighter, more complete. Use a decent vodka, nothing fancy. It burns off anyway.
This dish emerged from Italian-American kitchens in the 1970s and became a staple for good reason. It is quick enough for a weeknight, impressive enough for someone you want to feed well. The technique is simple: build flavor in layers, finish the pasta in the sauce, and let the starchy water do the work of binding everything together. Good ingredients. Minimal interference. That is the whole philosophy.
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
4 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
1 small
finely diced
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 can (28 ounces)
crushed by hand
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
1 cup
freshly grated, plus more for serving
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| rigatoni | 1 pound |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| unsalted butterdivided | 4 tablespoons |
| yellow onionfinely diced | 1 small |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| red pepper flakes | 1/2 teaspoon |
| whole San Marzano tomatoescrushed by hand | 1 can (28 ounces) |
| vodka | 1/2 cup |
| heavy cream | 3/4 cup |
| Parmigiano-Reggianofreshly grated, plus more for serving | 1 cup |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| fresh basil leaves | for serving |
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it generously. It should taste like the sea. This is the only chance you have to season the pasta from within. Set it going before you touch anything else.
Warm the olive oil and two tablespoons of butter in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. When the butter foams, add the onion and a pinch of salt. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the onion turns translucent and sweet, about five minutes. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes in the final minute. You want fragrance, not color.
Pour in the crushed tomatoes with their juices. Stir to combine and let the sauce simmer gently for ten minutes. The raw edge will soften and the flavors will marry. The sauce should bubble lazily, not spit.
Remove the pan from heat. Add the vodka. Return to medium heat and let it simmer for three to four minutes until the sharp alcohol smell dissipates. The vodka releases flavor compounds in the tomatoes that neither water nor fat can reach. It also brightens the acidity in a way that feels almost electric.
Reduce heat to low and stir in the heavy cream. Let the sauce simmer gently for another five minutes until it turns a beautiful coral pink and coats a spoon. Taste and adjust the salt. The sauce should be silky, rich, and balanced between sweet tomato and gentle heat.
Drop the rigatoni into the boiling water. Cook until just shy of al dente, about one minute less than the package suggests. The pasta will finish in the sauce. Reserve one cup of the starchy cooking water before draining.
Add the drained rigatoni to the sauce along with the remaining two tablespoons of butter. Toss vigorously over medium heat, adding splashes of pasta water as needed. The starch and butter will emulsify with the sauce, creating a glossy coating that clings to every ridge and tube. This takes two to three minutes of attentive tossing.
Remove from heat. Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano and toss until melted and incorporated. The sauce should be creamy, clinging to the pasta without pooling in the bowl. Serve immediately in warmed bowls, topped with torn basil and more cheese at the table.
1 serving (about 475g)
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