
Chef Lupita
Arroz Blanco Estilo Morelos
Morelos white rice is fried until pearly, then steamed with a whole serrano and parsley, a clean table rice that knows its job beside beans, guisados, and mole verde.
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Ciudad de Mexico's Christmas turkey relleno is bolillo bound with chorizo fat, chile ancho, sweet corn, apple, raisins, almonds, and broth, baked until the top goes crisp.
Ciudad de Mexico, in the Valle de Mexico, is where this relleno lives on the Christmas table: beside the pavo, in a talavera dish, surrounded by cousins reaching over each other with spoons. This is not northern flour-tortilla country and it is not Yucatan's recado negro table. Cada estado, su propia cocina. Here the holiday plate carries the old central habit of mixing pork, fruit, bread, and nuts until sweet and savory stop arguing and start behaving.
The ingredient that defines this version is Mexican chorizo cooked in manteca de cerdo, then deepened with chile ancho. The ancho is mild, dark, and raisiny. It belongs with apple, almonds, raisins, and bolillo because it gives the relleno a Mexican backbone instead of letting it become imported bread dressing wearing a paper sombrero. Así se hace y punto.
I learned versions like this in apartment kitchens from Narvarte to La Merced, where women bought bolillos the day before on purpose because stale bread knows its job. My mother's notebook had a line in the margin: 'que no nade en caldo,' don't let it swim in broth. She was right. The bread should be tender in the center, crisp on top, and red at the edges from chorizo fat.
This is Christmas food, but not delicate food. It is practical, generous, and built for a crowded table. If the apples at the mercado are good, use them. If the corn is in season, cut it from the cob. If not, use frozen corn without shame. Mexican grandmothers cook with what the market gives them today.
Turkey, or guajolote, was domesticated in Mesoamerica long before the Spanish arrived, and it remained a prestigious celebration bird after the conquest. Bread-based Christmas stuffings in central Mexico developed during the colonial period, when wheat bolillo, pork sausage, almonds, raisins, and olives entered urban kitchens and were folded into older holiday practices around guajolote. By the 19th and 20th centuries, Mexico City households had made pavo relleno a Christmas Eve standard, with each family adjusting the filling through chorizo, fruit, nuts, acitron when available, or the bolillo bought from the neighborhood panaderia.
Quantity
5
preferably one day old, cut into 1-inch cubes
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
12 ounces
casing removed
Quantity
1 medium
finely chopped
Quantity
3
finely chopped
Quantity
1
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
1 cup
for soaking the chile
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
2
peeled, cored, and diced
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
chopped
Quantity
1/3 cup
chopped
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 1/4 cups
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
cut into small pieces
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bolillospreferably one day old, cut into 1-inch cubes | 5 |
| manteca de cerdo | 2 tablespoons |
| Mexican pork chorizocasing removed | 12 ounces |
| white onionfinely chopped | 1 medium |
| garlic clovesfinely chopped | 3 |
| dried chile anchostemmed and seeded | 1 |
| hot waterfor soaking the chile | 1 cup |
| fresh sweet corn kernels or thawed frozen corn | 2 cups |
| crisp applespeeled, cored, and diced | 2 |
| raisins | 1/2 cup |
| blanched almondschopped | 1/2 cup |
| green oliveschopped | 1/3 cup |
| fresh parsleychopped | 2 tablespoons |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1 teaspoon |
| dried thyme | 1/2 teaspoon |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| warm turkey or chicken broth | 1 1/4 cups |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| unsalted buttercut into small pieces | 2 tablespoons |
Spread the bolillo cubes on a sheet pan and let them sit uncovered for at least 2 hours, or toast them in a 300F oven for 15 minutes until dry but not browned. The bread has to drink the broth without collapsing into paste. Fresh soft bread gives you mush. No me vengas con atajos.
Heat a dry comal or heavy skillet over medium. Toast the chile ancho for about 20 seconds per side, just until the skin softens, darkens slightly, and smells sweet like raisins and tobacco. Do not blacken it. Place it in hot water for 15 minutes, then blend with 1/4 cup of its soaking liquid until smooth.
Melt the manteca de cerdo in a wide clay cazuela or heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the chorizo and break it apart with a wooden spoon. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until the fat turns brick red and the meat begins to crisp at the edges. La manteca es el sabor, and the chorizo fat is what seasons the whole pan.
Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, scraping the bottom of the cazuela. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Stir in the blended chile ancho, Mexican oregano, thyme, bay leaf, salt, and black pepper. Let the chile fry in the fat for 3 minutes, until it darkens and smells rounded instead of raw.
Stir in the corn, apples, raisins, almonds, and olives. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until the apple edges soften but still hold their shape and the raisins plump in the chorizo fat. This is the central Mexican holiday balance: pork, fruit, nut, bread. Sweet and savory in the same spoonful.
Remove and discard the bay leaf. Add the dried bolillo cubes and parsley. Toss gently until the bread is stained red-orange from the chorizo and ancho. Pour in 1 cup of warm broth and fold again. Wait 2 minutes. If the bread still looks dry in the center, add the remaining 1/4 cup broth. The relleno should be moist and spoonable, not wet.
Transfer the relleno to a greased clay baking dish or leave it in the cazuela if it is oven-safe. Dot the top with the butter. Bake at 350F for 25 to 30 minutes, until the top is crisp in spots and the center is hot and tender. Let it rest 10 minutes before serving so the bread finishes absorbing the fat and broth.
Spoon the relleno into a shallow talavera serving dish and set it beside the pavo, not hidden inside the bird. Stuffing a turkey cavity sounds romantic until the bread turns greasy and the bird overcooks. Central Mexican home cooks know better: cook the relleno separately, bring it to the table generous, and let the turkey gravy touch it there.
1 serving (about 205g)
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