
Chef Graziella
Baci di Dama
Piedmont's famous hazelnut cookies, each one small as a walnut and twice as fragile. Two tender domes joined by a whisper of dark chocolate, named for how they resemble lips meeting in a kiss.
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The sweet half-moon pastries of Bologna, filled with quince mostarda and baked until golden. A San Giuseppe tradition that proves dessert can carry memory and meaning in every bite.
These are not ravioli. The name confuses outsiders, but in Bologna the word raviola means something entirely different: a crescent-shaped pastry filled with mostarda, the remarkable fruit preserve that carries the sting of mustard beneath its sweetness. The confusion is useful. It keeps tourists away.
The dough is pasta frolla, the short pastry that appears throughout Italian baking. It must be tender and crumbly, not tough. This requires cold butter, minimal handling, and the patience to rest the dough properly before rolling. Americans want to work dough until it is smooth. Italians know that overworked dough makes leather.
The mostarda is where these pastries reveal their character. True mostarda bolognese is not the famous candied fruits of Cremona floating in mustard syrup. Bologna's version is a dense, spreadable preserve, traditionally made from quince, that delivers its mustard bite subtly, almost as an afterthought. If you cannot find or make mostarda, these pastries lose their soul. Do not substitute jam. Make the mostarda or do not make the raviole.
Raviole bolognesi trace their origins to the convents of medieval Bologna, where nuns baked them for the feast of San Giuseppe on March 19th. The quince mostarda filling reflects the Arab-influenced preservation techniques that entered Italian cuisine through Sicily. Each pastry shop in Bologna guards its own mostarda recipe, and arguments about the proper mustard intensity have persisted for centuries.
Quantity
300 grams (2 1/3 cups)
Quantity
100 grams (1/2 cup)
Quantity
150 grams (10 tablespoons)
cut into small cubes
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 whole
Quantity
1
finely grated zest only
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
500 grams (about 1 pound)
Quantity
250 grams (1 1/4 cups)
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
4-6 drops
Quantity
1
beaten with 1 tablespoon milk
Quantity
for dusting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 300 grams (2 1/3 cups) |
| granulated sugar | 100 grams (1/2 cup) |
| cold unsalted buttercut into small cubes | 150 grams (10 tablespoons) |
| large egg yolks | 2 |
| large egg | 1 whole |
| lemonfinely grated zest only | 1 |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| quince or firm pears | 500 grams (about 1 pound) |
| granulated sugar (for mostarda) | 250 grams (1 1/4 cups) |
| fresh lemon juice | 1 tablespoon |
| mustard powder | 1/2 teaspoon |
| mustard essential oil (optional) | 4-6 drops |
| egg yolkbeaten with 1 tablespoon milk | 1 |
| powdered sugar | for dusting |
Peel and core the quince or pears. Cut into small dice, no larger than half an inch. Place in a heavy saucepan with the sugar and lemon juice. Cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until the fruit breaks down completely and becomes a thick, spreadable paste, about 45 minutes to one hour. The mixture should hold its shape on a spoon. Remove from heat and stir in the mustard powder and mustard oil. Taste: you should detect the mustard as a gentle warmth at the back of the throat, not an assault. Let cool completely.
Mound the flour on a clean work surface or in a large bowl. Add the sugar, salt, and lemon zest. Toss to combine. Scatter the cold butter cubes over the flour. Using your fingertips or a pastry blender, work the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs with some pea-sized pieces remaining. This takes three to four minutes by hand. The butter must stay cold.
Make a well in the center. Add the egg yolks and whole egg. Using a fork, beat the eggs lightly, then begin drawing flour from the sides of the well into the center. When the mixture becomes too stiff to work with the fork, use your hands to bring the dough together. Knead briefly, no more than 30 seconds. The dough should just hold together. It will look slightly rough. This is correct.
Flatten the dough into a disc about one inch thick. Wrap tightly in plastic film. Refrigerate for at least one hour, or overnight. Cold dough rolls more easily and produces flakier pastry. Do not skip this step.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let it soften for ten minutes. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to a thickness of about 3 millimeters (one-eighth inch). Using a round cutter approximately 8 centimeters (3 inches) in diameter, cut circles from the dough. Gather scraps, press together gently, chill briefly, and reroll once. Further rerolling toughens the pastry.
Place a generous teaspoon of cooled mostarda slightly off-center on each circle. Do not overfill. The filling will expand and burst through if you are greedy. Fold the dough over to create a half-moon shape. Press the edges firmly with your fingers, then seal with the tines of a fork. The fork creates the traditional pattern and ensures a tight seal.
Arrange the filled raviole on parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing them one inch apart. Refrigerate for 20 minutes while you preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Cold pastries hold their shape better in the oven.
Brush each raviola lightly with the egg wash. Bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. The edges will be slightly darker than the centers. This is correct. Remove to a wire rack and cool for at least 15 minutes before dusting generously with powdered sugar.
These are best eaten the day they are made, when the pastry is still crisp and the mostarda has not softened it. They are traditional with espresso after the San Giuseppe feast, though they require no occasion. Stack them on a plate and watch them disappear.
1 serving (about 45g)
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