
Chef Isabel
Afuega'l Pitu Roxu
Afuega'l Pitu Roxu is Asturias in a small cheese: cow's milk set slowly to a dense curd, drained without squeezing, then kneaded with pimentón until it turns orange and grips the throat.
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Queso Ibores is Extremaduran goat cheese from the Ibores and Villuercas country: firm, tangy, and marked by a red pimentón rind that must be rubbed on gently, not buried.
Queso Ibores is Extremadura's goat cheese, from the rough country of Ibores, Villuercas, La Jara, and Trujillo, where the milk comes from hardy goats and the rind is often rubbed with olive oil and pimentón until it turns a deep brick red. That red rind is not decoration. It is the cheese's skin, its scent of smoke and pepper, and the thing that tells you this is Extremaduran, not just another pressed goat cheese.
The method that decides it is moisture. Cut the curd small enough, stir it until it tightens, press it steadily, then salt it properly. Too wet and the cheese slumps and tastes sour. Too dry and it turns chalky before it ever has a chance to age. Pésalo, no lo adivines. With cheese, guessing is how you lose a week of work.
If you are far from Extremadura, use the best fresh goat milk you can get, never ultra-pasteurized. Raw milk is the old road, but pasteurized goat milk with a little calcium chloride will still give you a clean, firm cheese at home. It won't be DOP Queso Ibores, because that belongs to its place and its herds, but it will bring you close enough to understand the dish. No hace falta haber pisado España.
Rub the rind with pimentón de la Vera and olive oil after it has dried, then let it age until the paste firms and the tang settles. Slice it in slim wedges. Bread, olives, a few roasted peppers if you like, and stop there. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Queso Ibores belongs to Extremadura, especially the comarcas of Ibores, Villuercas, La Jara, and Trujillo, where goat herds have long turned rough grazing into milk worth preserving. The protected cheese is made from the milk of local Serrana, Verata, and Retinta goats, pressed into small wheels and matured until firm. Its red rind comes from the Extremaduran habit of rubbing the cheese with olive oil and pimentón, often the smoky pimentón de la Vera from the same wider region.
Quantity
8 litres
raw or pasteurized, not ultra-pasteurized
Quantity
1/8 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
diluted in 60ml cool non-chlorinated water
Quantity
1.5ml
diluted in 60ml cool non-chlorinated water
Quantity
160g
for brine
Quantity
1 litre
for brine
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for rubbing the rind
Quantity
2 teaspoons
sweet or a little picante, for the rind
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh goat milkraw or pasteurized, not ultra-pasteurized | 8 litres |
| mesophilic starter culture | 1/8 teaspoon |
| calcium chloride (optional)diluted in 60ml cool non-chlorinated water | 1/4 teaspoon |
| liquid animal rennetdiluted in 60ml cool non-chlorinated water | 1.5ml |
| fine sea saltfor brine | 160g |
| non-chlorinated waterfor brine | 1 litre |
| extra virgin olive oilfor rubbing the rind | 1 tablespoon |
| pimentón de la Verasweet or a little picante, for the rind | 2 teaspoons |
Warm the goat milk slowly to 30C in a stainless steel pot, stirring gently so the heat is even. If you are using pasteurized milk, stir in the diluted calcium chloride first. Sprinkle the mesophilic culture over the surface, wait 2 minutes for it to hydrate, then stir it in with slow up-and-down strokes. Cover and hold at 30C for 45 minutes.
Stir in the diluted rennet for 1 minute, then stop the milk completely. Cover and hold at 30C until the curd gives a clean break, usually 45 to 60 minutes. Do not hurry this. A weak curd breaks into dust later, and a dusty curd gives you a dry, mean cheese.
Cut the curd into 8mm cubes, then rest it for 5 minutes so the edges firm. Stir gently for 25 to 35 minutes, keeping the curds near 30C, until they shrink and feel springy between your fingers. This is the step that decides the cheese: the curd must give up enough whey to press firm, but not so much that the paste turns chalky.
Ladle the curds into a cheesecloth-lined mould and fold the cloth neatly over the top. Press at 5kg for 30 minutes, turn the cheese, then press at 10kg for 2 hours. Turn again and press at 15kg for 6 to 8 hours, until the wheel holds its shape and the surface is closed.
Dissolve the salt in the water to make a brine. Chill it, then lower in the cheese and brine for 8 hours, turning once halfway through. Lift it out, pat it dry, and set it on a draining mat at cool room temperature for 24 hours, until the rind feels dry to the touch.
Mix the olive oil with the pimentón de la Vera into a loose red paste. Rub a thin coat over the dry rind with clean hands, just enough to stain it brick red. Do not cake it on; pimentón should perfume the rind, not turn the cheese into paprika paste. Let it dry for another day.
Age the cheese at 10 to 12C with about 80 percent humidity for at least 30 days, turning it daily for the first week and then three times a week. If the rind looks dry, rub it with the smallest film of olive oil. Serve in slim wedges when the paste is firm, ivory, and tangy, with a gentle smoky edge from the rind.
1 serving (about 900g)
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