Queso de Tetilla Gallego

Queso de Tetilla is Galician, from the wet green northwest, and it is not a cheese for shouting over. It is mild cow's milk cheese, soft under a thin yellow rind, with that rounded breast shape that makes no apology for itself. The point is the tenderness: creamy, buttery, a little lactic, never sharp.

The method that decides it is not cooking. It is temperature. Serve it too cold and you taste almost nothing; leave it at room temperature long enough and the paste relaxes, the scent opens, and the knife moves through it cleanly. Cut it in wedges from top to base so every piece gets rind and centre. Pésalo, no lo adivines, even here, because a mean board is noticed before a generous one.

If you are far from Galicia, look for Queso Tetilla DOP first. No hace falta haber pisado España. If you cannot find it, a young, mild cow's milk cheese with a supple paste will serve the same place at the table, though it will not have the same lactic sweetness or shape. Pair it plainly: membrillo, a little honey, walnuts if you like, and good bread. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.