Puntarelle alla Romana

This is Rome in January. The markets are full of these strange, pale green heads of Catalogna chicory with their hollow inner shoots, and Romans queue to buy them because they know what the rest of the world does not: that bitter greens and pungent dressings create the most satisfying salads.

The technique is simple but non-negotiable. You must cut the shoots into thin strips. You must soak them in ice water until they curl. You must make the dressing by hand, pounding anchovies and garlic into a paste before emulsifying with vinegar and oil. Each step matters. Skip the ice water soak and you have limp strips. Use a blender for the dressing and you lose the rustic texture that catches in the curls.

Americans often fear anchovies. This is a mistake. When pounded into a dressing, they do not taste like fish. They provide a savory depth, a saltiness that brings out the character of the bitter chicory. The garlic here is restrained: two cloves for a dressing that will coat an entire head of puntarelle. This is enough. The anchovy does the heavy lifting.