
Chef Lupita
Birria Tacos with Consome
Jalisco's goat birria, born around Cocula and carried into Guadalajara's markets, slow-braised in ancho, guajillo, cascabel, and chile de arbol, then tucked into corn tortillas crisped in its own red fat.
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Jalisco's market quesadilla, built with chicharron prensado softened in salsa de chile de arbol from Yahualica, queso adobera, and corn tortillas pressed fresh on the comal.
Jalisco first. Guadalajara specifically, the mercados, tianguis, and corner antojitos stands where a cook keeps guisados warm in clay cazuelas and turns them into lunch before you finish counting your coins. This quesadilla belongs there: chicharron prensado stewed until soft, salsa roja sharp with chile de arbol, and queso adobera melting into a corn tortilla browned on the comal.
The chile matters. In Jalisco, chile de arbol from Yahualica has a reputation because it earned one: thin skin, clean heat, red color that stains the salsa without making it muddy. You toast it carefully, blend it with jitomate, garlic, and a little onion, then fry it in manteca de cerdo before the pressed chicharron goes in. No me vengas con atajos. If you pour raw blender salsa over the meat and call it done, the guisado will taste thin.
My mother kept chicharron prensado for the end of the week, when money was tight and everyone still expected dinner. She would say, 'Una mujer que sabe cocinar no pasa hambre.' She was right. This is budget food, but not careless food. The tortilla must be corn because this is Guadalajara, not the north. The cheese should be queso adobera if you can find it, soft enough to melt but not so bland that it disappears. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Chicharron prensado developed as a practical use for the browned pork bits and skins left after rendering lard, pressed into dense slabs that could be sold cheaply in markets across central and western Mexico. Jalisco's version often leans on chile de arbol, especially the Yahualica chile that received a Mexican denomination of origin in 2018 for production in parts of Jalisco and Zacatecas. Quesadillas in Guadalajara are part of the broader antojito tradition built around corn masa, comal cooking, and market guisados, not the flour-tortilla format associated with northern states.
Quantity
8 ounces
chopped into small pieces
Quantity
10
stemmed
Quantity
3 medium
halved
Quantity
1/4 medium
Quantity
2
unpeeled
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1/4 cup
as needed
Quantity
1 pound
or 2 cups masa harina mixed with 1 1/2 cups warm water and 1/2 teaspoon salt
Quantity
8 ounces
grated or thinly sliced
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| chicharron prensadochopped into small pieces | 8 ounces |
| dried chile de arbol, preferably Yahualicastemmed | 10 |
| ripe Roma jitomateshalved | 3 medium |
| white onion | 1/4 medium |
| garlic clovesunpeeled | 2 |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1/2 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | 1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| manteca de cerdo | 2 tablespoons |
| water or light pork brothas needed | 1/4 cup |
| fresh corn masa for tortillasor 2 cups masa harina mixed with 1 1/2 cups warm water and 1/2 teaspoon salt | 1 pound |
| queso adobera de Jaliscograted or thinly sliced | 8 ounces |
| finely diced white onion (optional) | for serving |
| chopped cilantro (optional) | for serving |
| lime halves (optional) | for serving |
| extra salsa de chile de arbol (optional) | for serving |
Heat a dry comal over medium. Toast the chile de arbol for 10 to 15 seconds per side, just until fragrant and a shade darker. Do not let them blacken. Roast the jitomates, onion, and unpeeled garlic on the same comal until the tomato skins blister, the onion has brown spots, and the garlic softens inside its skin.
Peel the garlic. Put the toasted chiles, roasted jitomates, onion, garlic, oregano, salt, and 1/4 cup water or broth in a blender. Blend until smooth enough to pour. This is a market salsa, not a raw pico. The color should be brick red and the smell should be roasted chile, garlic, and tomato.
Melt 1 tablespoon of manteca de cerdo in a small clay cazuela or heavy skillet over medium heat. Pour in the salsa. It will sputter, so stand back and let it do its work. Cook 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often, until the salsa darkens slightly and the fat shines at the edges. La manteca es el sabor.
Add the chopped chicharron prensado to the fried salsa. Stir until every piece is coated. Lower the heat and cook 8 to 10 minutes, adding a splash of water or broth if the pan gets dry. The chicharron should soften and drink in the salsa, but it should not become soup. Taste before salting again. Pressed chicharron is already salty.
If using fresh masa, knead it with wet hands until smooth and soft. If using masa harina, mix it with warm water and salt, then rest it 10 minutes before kneading. The masa should feel like soft clay, not cracked putty. If the edges split when pressed, knead in water one tablespoon at a time.
Divide the masa into 8 balls, each about the size of a small lime. Press each ball between plastic in a tortilla press to about 6 inches wide. Keep them covered with a damp towel. Corn dries out because corn is honest. It tells you when you have neglected it.
Lay one tortilla on a hot comal and cook 30 seconds. Flip it. Add a small handful of queso adobera to one half and spoon 2 tablespoons of the chicharron guisado over the cheese. Fold the tortilla over and press gently with a spatula. Cook 1 to 2 minutes per side, until the tortilla has brown freckles, the edges are sealed, and the cheese has melted into the salsa.
Serve the quesadillas immediately, cut in halves if you want them easier to eat. Set out diced white onion, cilantro, lime halves, and extra salsa de chile de arbol in small clay dishes. Do not bury them in lettuce, sour cream, or yellow cheese. This is Guadalajara market food. Así se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 150g)
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