
Chef Lupita
Birria Tacos with Consome
Jalisco's goat birria, born around Cocula and carried into Guadalajara's markets, slow-braised in ancho, guajillo, cascabel, and chile de arbol, then tucked into corn tortillas crisped in its own red fat.
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Michoacan's carnitas from the copper cazo, pork shoulder, belly, rib, and cuerito cooked slowly in lard, chopped hot, and folded into corn tortillas with salsa de chile de arbol.
Michoacan owns carnitas. Quiroga, near Lake Patzcuaro, sells them by the kilo from deep copper cazos, and Santa Clara del Cobre makes the cazos that give the dish its shape. You can argue about which town does it best. People do. Let them argue while you warm the tortillas.
This is pork cooked in manteca de cerdo until the meat softens, the skin turns crisp at the edges, and the fat carries the flavor through every cut. Shoulder gives meat, belly gives richness, ribs give bone flavor, cuerito gives texture. Do not come to me with lean pork loin. That is not carnitas. La manteca es el sabor.
I learned this version from a woman in Quiroga who sold tacos beside her husband's cazo. He handled the paddle, yes, but she knew the salt, the orange, the milk, the moment when the pork stopped simmering and started browning. She watched the pot the way other people watch a clock. The taco is not complicated: corn tortilla, chopped carnitas, raw white onion, cilantro, lime, salsa de chile de arbol. The discipline is in knowing when to stop cooking. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
Carnitas became possible in Mexico after Spanish colonists introduced pigs in the 16th century, and Michoacan turned pork, lard, copper work, and market cooking into a regional specialty. Santa Clara del Cobre, a town famous for hammered copper since the colonial period, produced the wide cazos that allowed cooks to confit large quantities of pork evenly over open fire. By the 20th century, Quiroga had become one of the best-known carnitas towns in Mexico, with stalls selling mixed cuts by weight for tacos, family meals, and road-trip pilgrimages from Morelia and the Bajio.
Quantity
3 pounds
cut into fist-sized pieces
Quantity
1 pound
cut into 2-inch pieces
Quantity
1 pound
cut into individual ribs
Quantity
8 ounces
cut into wide strips
Quantity
3 pounds
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1 1/2 tablespoons, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 medium
halved
Quantity
1
halved crosswise
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1
halved
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
18
preferably hand-pressed
Quantity
1 cup
for serving
Quantity
1 cup
chopped, for serving
Quantity
6
cut into wedges, for serving
Quantity
8
husked and rinsed
Quantity
10
stemmed
Quantity
1
stemmed
Quantity
1 small
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in pork shoulder with skincut into fist-sized pieces | 3 pounds |
| pork belly with skincut into 2-inch pieces | 1 pound |
| pork spare ribscut into individual ribs | 1 pound |
| pork cuerito or pork skincut into wide strips | 8 ounces |
| pork lard (manteca de cerdo) | 3 pounds |
| water | 1 cup |
| kosher salt | 1 1/2 tablespoons, plus more to taste |
| white onionhalved | 1 medium |
| head of garlichalved crosswise | 1 |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1 teaspoon |
| orangehalved | 1 |
| whole milk | 1 cup |
| Mexican Coca-Cola made with cane sugar | 1/4 cup |
| small corn tortillaspreferably hand-pressed | 18 |
| finely diced white onionfor serving | 1 cup |
| fresh cilantrochopped, for serving | 1 cup |
| limescut into wedges, for serving | 6 |
| tomatilloshusked and rinsed | 8 |
| dried chile de arbolstemmed | 10 |
| fresh chile serranostemmed | 1 |
| garlic clove | 1 small |
| kosher salt for salsa | 1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
Pat the pork shoulder, belly, ribs, and cuerito dry. Season all over with the 1 1/2 tablespoons salt and let the meat sit at room temperature for 30 minutes while you prepare the pot. Salt needs time to enter the meat. If you throw cold pork straight into the lard, the outside tightens before the inside learns anything.
Put the manteca de cerdo and water in a wide heavy pot, copper cazo if you have one, Dutch oven if you do not. Heat over medium-low until the lard melts completely. The water protects the meat at the beginning and cooks away later. You want enough melted lard to come at least halfway up the pork. Yes, that much. No me vengas con atajos.
Lower the pork pieces into the melted lard. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaves, and dried Mexican oregano. Squeeze the orange halves over the pot, then drop the halves in. Pour in the milk and the Mexican Coca-Cola. The milk helps the surface brown and the cane sugar darkens the edges. This is market carnitas logic, not a dessert recipe.
Keep the pot at a lazy bubble for about 2 hours, turning the pieces every 25 to 30 minutes. Do not boil hard. The meat should move slowly in the fat, not fight it. The shoulder will begin to loosen, the belly will look glossy, and the cuerito will soften without falling apart. That is what you want.
When the water, milk, and orange juice have mostly cooked away, the sound in the pot will change from wet bubbling to a lower frying sound. Raise the heat to medium and cook 35 to 45 minutes more, turning carefully. Watch the color. The pork should go deep gold, then mahogany at the edges. The skin should crisp where it touches the fat. Pull the pieces out before they dry. Carnitas should crackle outside and stay tender inside.
Lift the pork onto a wire rack set over a sheet pan. Let it rest 10 minutes. Discard the spent onion, garlic, orange, and bay leaves. Strain the lard and save it. Chop a mixture of shoulder, belly, rib meat, and cuerito together on a board, leaving rough pieces. Do not shred it into threads. A carnitas taco needs different textures in one bite.
Set the tomatillos, chile serrano, and garlic on a hot comal. Turn until the tomatillos are blistered and olive green, the serrano is charred in spots, and the garlic has softened. Toast the chile de arbol separately for 10 to 15 seconds, just until fragrant and darker red. Blend the tomatillos, serrano, garlic, chile de arbol, and 1/2 teaspoon salt until spoonable but not watery. Taste. The salsa should be sharp enough to cut the fat of the carnitas.
Heat the corn tortillas on a dry comal until they puff in spots and get small toasted freckles. Keep them wrapped in a cotton servilleta so they stay flexible. Flour tortillas are a northern tradition. These Michoacan tacos take corn tortillas. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Pile the chopped carnitas onto the warm tortillas. Add finely diced white onion, chopped cilantro, salsa de chile de arbol, and a squeeze of lime. Serve at once, family-style, with the cutting board, salsa, limes, and tortillas on the table. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 170g)
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