
Chef Lupita
Birria Tacos with Consome
Jalisco's goat birria, born around Cocula and carried into Guadalajara's markets, slow-braised in ancho, guajillo, cascabel, and chile de arbol, then tucked into corn tortillas crisped in its own red fat.
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Jalisco's lonche de pierna is slow-roasted pork leg tucked into birote salado with avocado, tomato, and pickled jalapeños, the weeknight sandwich Guadalajara knows by name.
Jalisco gives you this lonche from Guadalajara, the city where a torta ahogada is a torta and almost every other filled bread is a lonche. Say it correctly. This is not a hoagie with Mexican clothes on. It is pork leg roasted until it slices thin, tucked into birote salado, the crusty salted bread that belongs to Guadalajara the way tequila belongs to the highlands.
The pork is pierna, not shoulder, because the sandwich wants clean slices that hold together under avocado, tomato, crema, and chiles jalapeños en escabeche. The flavor comes from garlic, Mexican oregano, black pepper, bay leaf, orange juice, vinegar, and manteca de cerdo rubbed over the meat so the outside browns properly. La manteca es el sabor. Use oil if you want a drier roast and a lecture from a señora in Mercado Libertad.
I learned this version from a woman near San Juan de Dios who sold lonches wrapped in white paper by noon and was done before the office workers returned from lunch. She did not drown them in sauce. That is another dish. She sliced the pierna thin, warmed the birote on the comal, spread the avocado with a firm hand, and put the pickled chiles on the side for the person eating to decide. Guadalajara knows the difference. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
The birote salado is one of Guadalajara's defining breads, a crusty, salted loaf associated with the city's mineral-rich water, dry climate, and 19th-century European baking influence. Popular stories tie the name to Camille Pirotte, a Belgian baker during the French Intervention, though the origin is debated and local bakers guard their own explanations. Lonches de pierna became a practical urban food in 20th-century Guadalajara: roast pork from home kitchens and market stands, sliced into birote, portable enough for workers but specific enough that a jalisciense can recognize it immediately.
Quantity
3 pounds
tied if uneven
Quantity
2 tablespoons
softened
Quantity
6
crushed to a paste
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2
crumbled
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
6
Quantity
3
sliced or mashed
Quantity
3
sliced thin
Quantity
1/2
sliced very thin
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless pork leg roast (pierna de cerdo)tied if uneven | 3 pounds |
| manteca de cerdosoftened | 2 tablespoons |
| garlic clovescrushed to a paste | 6 |
| kosher salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1 teaspoon |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1 teaspoon |
| ground cumin | 1/2 teaspoon |
| bay leavescrumbled | 2 |
| ground clove | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fresh orange juice | 3/4 cup |
| white vinegar | 1/4 cup |
| water or light pork stock | 1/2 cup |
| birote salado rolls | 6 |
| ripe Mexican avocadossliced or mashed | 3 |
| Roma tomatoessliced thin | 3 |
| white onionsliced very thin | 1/2 |
| Mexican crema | 1/2 cup |
| chiles jalapeños en escabeche with carrots and onions | 1 cup |
| lime halves (optional) | for serving |
Pat the pork leg dry. In a molcajete or small bowl, work the garlic, salt, black pepper, Mexican oregano, cumin, crumbled bay leaves, and clove into a rough paste. Rub it all over the pork, then rub the softened manteca de cerdo over the surface. The lard helps the lean leg roast without drying at the edges. No me vengas con atajos.
Set the pork in a nonreactive dish. Mix the orange juice and white vinegar, pour around the meat, cover, and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight. Turn it once if you remember. The vinegar sharpens the roast and the orange brings the Western Mexican sweetness you taste in many Jalisco marinades.
Heat the oven to 325F. Transfer the pork and marinade to a heavy roasting pan or clay cazuela that can go in the oven. Add the water or light pork stock around the meat. Cover tightly with foil or a lid and roast for 2 hours. The liquid should bubble gently at the edges, not dry out. If the pan looks dry, add another splash of water.
Uncover the pork and baste it with the pan juices. Raise the oven to 400F and roast 35 to 45 minutes more, basting every 10 minutes, until the outside is browned and glossy and the center reaches 145F to 150F. The roast should smell of garlic, oregano, and browned fat. That is the sandwich announcing itself.
Move the pork to a cutting board and rest it for 20 minutes. Do not skip the rest unless you like dry meat and wasted work. Strain the pan juices, skim off excess fat if needed, and keep the juices warm. Slice the pierna thin across the grain. Thin slices make a proper lonche because they fold into the bread instead of fighting it.
Split the birote salado rolls lengthwise without cutting all the way through. Warm them cut side down on a comal until the crust smells toasted and the inside softens slightly. Birote is crusty by design. That chew is not a flaw. It is Guadalajara doing its job.
Spread avocado generously on the bottom half of each warm birote. Add thin slices of roast pork and spoon a little warm pan juice over the meat. Add tomato, thin white onion, a line of Mexican crema, and chiles jalapeños en escabeche with their carrots and onions. Close the bread and press lightly with your hand. Serve at once with lime halves and more escabeche on the table.
1 serving (about 360g)
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