Pork Chops with Mustard Cream Sauce

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •12-inch cast iron or heavy-bottomed skillet
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Wooden spoon

Instructions

1. 1

   Temper the pork

   Remove pork chops from the refrigerator thirty to forty-five minutes before cooking. Cold meat hitting a hot pan seizes. Room temperature meat relaxes into the heat and cooks evenly from edge to center. Season generously on both sides with salt and pepper. The salt will draw moisture to the surface and begin to dissolve, which helps with browning.

   If your chops have a thick fat cap along the edge, score it every inch to prevent curling in the pan.
2. 2

   Sear the chops

   Set a large cast iron or heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil and one tablespoon of butter. When the butter foam subsides and the fat shimmers, lay the chops in the pan without crowding. You should hear an immediate, insistent sizzle. If the pan is quiet, it is not hot enough. Sear without moving for four to five minutes until deeply golden brown on the first side.

3. 3

   Finish to temperature

   Flip the chops and add the thyme sprigs to the pan. Reduce heat to medium and continue cooking for another four to six minutes. For chops this thick, you are looking for an internal temperature of 140F at the thickest point near the bone. The meat will carry over to 145F as it rests. Transfer chops to a plate and tent loosely with foil.

   The old advice to cook pork until gray and dry came from fears that no longer apply. Modern pork at 145F is safe, juicy, and faintly pink at the center.
4. 4

   Build the sauce base

   Pour off all but about one tablespoon of fat from the skillet. Return to medium heat and add the shallots. Cook, stirring and scraping up the fond, until softened and fragrant, about two minutes. Add the garlic and stir for thirty seconds more. The fond is where the flavor lives. Do not let it burn, but do not leave it behind either.

5. 5

   Deglaze with wine

   Pour in the wine. It will sputter and steam as it hits the hot pan. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up every bit of caramelized goodness stuck to the bottom. Let the wine reduce by half, about two minutes. The harsh alcohol smell will mellow into something more rounded.

6. 6

   Finish the cream sauce

   Pour in the cream and let it come to a gentle simmer. Cook for three to four minutes until the sauce thickens enough to coat a spoon. Remove the pan from heat. Whisk in both mustards, the remaining tablespoon of butter, and the tarragon if using. Add any juices that have collected under the resting chops. Taste. Add a squeeze of lemon to brighten everything. Adjust salt and pepper.

7. 7

   Plate and serve

   Place each chop on a warm plate. Spoon the sauce generously over the top, letting it pool around the meat. Serve immediately with something to soak up the extra sauce: crusty bread, buttered egg noodles, or a pile of simply dressed greens. Let things taste of what they are.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out heritage breed pork from farmers who raise animals on pasture. Berkshire, Duroc, and Red Wattle breeds have fat and flavor that commodity pork lacks. The difference in a simple preparation like this is impossible to hide.
• •Bone-in chops stay juicier than boneless. The bone insulates the meat and slows cooking near the center, giving you more control.
• •A good Dijon is essential. Look for French imports from Dijon or Burgundy. Many American mustards labeled Dijon use inferior mustard seeds and too much vinegar.
• •This dish pairs beautifully with a white Burgundy or an unoaked Chardonnay. The wine echoes the sauce without overwhelming the pork.

Advance Preparation

• •Season the pork chops with salt and refrigerate uncovered overnight. The dry brine improves flavor and texture. Pat dry before searing.
• •The sauce is best made fresh, but leftover sauce keeps refrigerated for two days. Reheat gently with a splash of cream to restore the texture.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 355g)