
Chef Graziella
Cotoletta di Pollo alla Milanese
The golden cutlet of Lombardy, where chicken is pounded thin, coated in the finest crumbs, and fried in butter until it shatters at the touch of a fork. Lemon is the only adornment it needs.
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The chicken of Roman summers, braised with sweet peppers until both surrender to each other. This is Ferragosto on a plate, the taste of August in the Eternal City when the whole country stops to eat.
Romans make this dish in August, when the peppers are at their sweetest and the city empties for Ferragosto. The holiday falls on the fifteenth, and families who remain gather around tables set with this chicken, the peppers soft and jammy, the sauce barely there. It is not a complicated dish. It does not need to be.
The peppers must be sweet. Red and yellow, never green. Green peppers are unripe and bitter; they have no place here. You want peppers that have hung on the vine until they turned colors, peppers so sweet you could eat them raw like fruit. These peppers, cut into strips and braised with the chicken, become something remarkable.
I see American recipes that add olives, capers, anchovies, turning this into a confused mess. The Roman original has none of this. Chicken. Peppers. Tomatoes. Garlic used with restraint. White wine. That is all. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in. The peppers speak for themselves if you let them.
Pollo alla Romana con Peperoni emerged as a Ferragosto tradition in the trattorias of Rome's working-class neighborhoods, where cooks combined late-summer peppers with the chickens that scratched in courtyard gardens. The dish became synonymous with August 15th, the ancient Roman festival of rest that the Catholic Church transformed into the Feast of the Assumption. When Romans say 'peperoni,' they mean sweet peppers, not the spiced salami Americans imagine.
Quantity
1 (3 1/2 to 4 pounds)
cut into 8 pieces
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
3 large (red and yellow)
seeded and cut into 1-inch strips
Quantity
1 medium
sliced thin
Quantity
3
lightly crushed and peeled
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
1 can (14 ounces)
crushed by hand
Quantity
1 sprig
Quantity
1 sprig
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole chickencut into 8 pieces | 1 (3 1/2 to 4 pounds) |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/4 cup |
| sweet bell peppersseeded and cut into 1-inch strips | 3 large (red and yellow) |
| yellow onionsliced thin | 1 medium |
| garlic cloveslightly crushed and peeled | 3 |
| dry white wine | 3/4 cup |
| San Marzano tomatoescrushed by hand | 1 can (14 ounces) |
| fresh marjoram or oregano | 1 sprig |
| fresh rosemary | 1 sprig |
Pat the chicken pieces completely dry with paper towels. Season generously with salt and pepper on all sides. Let them sit at room temperature for 20 minutes while you prepare the peppers. Dry chicken browns. Wet chicken steams. This matters.
Heat the olive oil in a heavy braising pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until it shimmers but does not smoke. Working in batches to avoid crowding, brown the chicken pieces skin-side down until deep golden, about 5 minutes per side. Do not move them while they brown. Transfer to a plate and set aside. You will not achieve this color if you crowd the pan.
Reduce heat to medium. Add the pepper strips and onion to the pan with the rendered chicken fat and oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the peppers begin to soften and the onion turns translucent, about 10 minutes. The peppers should relax but not collapse completely. Add the crushed garlic cloves and cook one minute more. The garlic perfumes the oil; it should not brown.
Pour in the white wine and scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to release the browned bits. Let the wine bubble vigorously until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. You should no longer smell raw alcohol.
Add the crushed tomatoes, marjoram, and rosemary. Stir to combine. Nestle the browned chicken pieces into the peppers, skin-side up. Pour any juices from the plate over the chicken. The liquid should come about halfway up the chicken pieces. Bring to a gentle simmer.
Reduce heat to low, cover the pan with the lid slightly ajar, and simmer gently until the chicken is cooked through and tender, about 40 to 45 minutes. The breast pieces may finish before the thighs; remove them earlier if needed and keep warm. The peppers should be completely soft, almost jammy, melting into the sauce.
Remove the herb sprigs and garlic cloves. Taste the sauce and adjust salt and pepper. If the sauce seems thin, remove the chicken and peppers to a warm platter and simmer the liquid uncovered for a few minutes until it thickens slightly. Spoon the peppers and sauce over the chicken. Serve immediately with good crusty bread to soak up the juices. The bread is not optional.
1 serving (about 400g)
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