
Chef Dimitra
Arkatena Omodous (Αρκατένα Ομόδους)
Omodos arkatena are Cypriot chickpea-leavened rusks, pale inside and sesame-studded, baked once as little rings and again until they crack clean under the tooth and keep beautifully.
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Pelion tiganopsomo is frying-pan bread at its plainest and best: a soft yeast dough, folded around feta or left plain for honey, fried hot so the crust blisters before the crumb drinks oil.
Pelion tiganopsomo is bread from the frying pan, a mountain flatbread from Magnesia with a blistered crust and a soft middle. Some rounds hide feta in the dough. Some are left plain and finished with honey and cinnamon. The region is the dish's surname here, because Pelion's villages know the bread as quick food, the kind that turns flour, water, oil, and one good cheese into supper.
The method that decides it is the oil temperature. Fry it hot and fast, so the dough puffs and sets before it can drink the oil. If the pan is sleepy, the bread turns heavy. If the pan is right, the surface blisters, the feta warms through, and the crumb stays tender.
Keep the dough soft, not stiff, and don't bury it in fillings. Feta should season the bread, not split it open. I have Pelion notes from two home cooks who disagreed only on the finish: oregano for the cheese round, honey and cinnamon for the plain one. I kept both, because neither is decoration. They're how the bread is eaten.
In Pelion, in Magnesia above Volos, tiganopsomo belongs to the old family of pan breads made between baking days, when firing an oven for one small loaf made no sense. The name is plain Greek: tigani means frying pan and psomi means bread, so the word records the method before it records a fixed recipe. Local versions move between feta-filled and plain honeyed rounds, reflecting the mountain economy of flour, sheep's milk cheese, olive oil, and beehives.
Quantity
500g
plus extra for dusting
Quantity
7g
Quantity
8g
Quantity
310ml
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for the dough
Quantity
200g
crumbled, preferably sheep's-milk
Quantity
250ml
for shallow frying, plus more if needed
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for feta-filled breads
Quantity
60g
for plain sweet breads
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
for plain sweet breads
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus extra for dusting | 500g |
| instant dried yeast | 7g |
| fine sea salt | 8g |
| lukewarm water | 310ml |
| extra virgin olive oilfor the dough | 1 tablespoon |
| firm Greek fetacrumbled, preferably sheep's-milk | 200g |
| extra virgin olive oilfor shallow frying, plus more if needed | 250ml |
| dried Greek oregano (optional)for feta-filled breads | 1 teaspoon |
| Greek honey (optional)for plain sweet breads | 60g |
| ground cinnamon (optional)for plain sweet breads | 1/2 teaspoon |
Stir the flour, yeast, and salt in a wide bowl. Add the lukewarm water and 1 tablespoon olive oil, then mix until no dry flour remains. Knead for 7 to 8 minutes, by hand or mixer, until the dough is smooth, soft, and only slightly tacky. It should not feel stiff.
Cover the dough and leave it in a warm corner for 30 minutes, until it looks a little swollen and relaxed. It doesn't need to double. Tiganopsomo is quick bread for the pan, not a tall loaf for the oven.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and divide it into 4 equal pieces. For each feta bread, roll one piece into a 14cm circle, put 50g crumbled feta in the center, gather the edges over it, and pinch well to close. Turn seam-side down and gently roll or press to an 18cm round. For a sweet bread, leave one round plain and use 50g less feta.
Pour the frying oil into a heavy 26cm pan and heat it over medium-high heat to 175 to 180C. Without a thermometer, drop in a tiny pinch of dough: it should fizz at once and rise. This is the step that decides the bread. Hot oil sets the outside quickly so the dough puffs; lukewarm oil sinks in and makes it heavy.
Slide in one round and fry for 2 to 3 minutes on the first side, until deep golden with small blisters. Turn and fry the second side for about 2 minutes more. Keep the heat lively but not smoking, and adjust between breads. Drain on a wire rack or paper, then repeat with the remaining rounds.
Sprinkle feta-filled breads with a little oregano if you like them savory. Plain breads take honey and cinnamon while still warm. Eat tiganopsomo at once, torn by hand. Don't stack the breads for long, because the crust softens under its own heat.
1 serving (about 270g)
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