Cretan Eftazymo (Εφτάζυμο), Chickpea-Leavened Bread

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •clean 1 litre glass jar with loose-fitting lid
• •instant-read thermometer
• •heavy baking stone or 30 x 40cm thick baking tray

Instructions

1. 1

   Start the Chickpeas

   Put the cracked chickpeas in a clean 1 litre jar. Pour over the 600ml hot water, cover with the lid set loosely, wrap the jar in a towel, and keep it at 32 to 35C for 10 to 12 hours. The liquid should foam on top and smell nutty, sour, and clean.

   This warmth is the dish. If the jar cools, the ferment sleeps and the loaf stays heavy. If the smell is rotten, or you see pink streaks or fuzzy growth, throw it away and begin again.
2. 2

   Make the Leaven

   Strain the chickpea liquid into a bowl and discard the chickpeas. Measure 450ml of the liquid, topping up with warm water if you are short. Whisk in 250g bread flour until you have a thick batter, cover it, and keep it warm until it rises, bubbles, and looks alive, 2 to 4 hours.

3. 3

   Mix the Dough

   In a large bowl, mix the remaining 650g flour with the salt, crushed anise, sugar, and pounded mastic. Add the chickpea leaven, olive oil, and 120ml of the warm water. Mix by hand until no dry flour remains, adding the last 30ml water only if the dough feels stiff.

4. 4

   Knead Until Supple

   Knead for 10 to 12 minutes, until the dough turns smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky. It won't feel like a yeast dough racing ahead. It is slower, more stubborn, and that is normal.

5. 5

   Let It Rise

   Oil the bowl lightly, set the dough inside, cover it well, and keep it warm at 28 to 32C until it rises by about half and feels aerated under your fingers, 2 to 3 hours. Don't wait for a dramatic doubling. Eftazymo has a quieter lift.

6. 6

   Shape the Loaves

   Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and divide it in two. Shape each piece into a tight round or oval loaf. Brush the tops lightly with water, press them into the sesame seeds, and set them sesame-side up on a lined baking tray.

7. 7

   Proof Warm

   Cover the loaves and let them proof in a warm, still place for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until they look puffy and a fingertip pressed into the side leaves a slow dent. If the kitchen is cold, give them time. The bread knows the calendar, not your impatience.

8. 8

   Bake Deep Brown

   Heat the oven to 220C with a heavy tray or baking stone inside. Slide in the loaves and bake for 15 minutes, then lower to 190C and bake 30 to 35 minutes more, until the crust is deep brown and the base sounds hollow when tapped. Cool completely before slicing, or the crumb will turn gummy under the knife.

Chef Tips

• •Use fresh dried chickpeas, not canned and not the dusty bag that has sat in the cupboard for three years. Old chickpeas make a weak ferment. Λίγα και καλά: a few things, and good ones.
• •A turned-off oven with the light on can work, but check the temperature first. Some ovens climb too high. You want warmth, not punishment.
• •Eftazymo keeps well for 3 days wrapped in a cloth once fully cool. Toast it on the second day and eat it with olives, tahini, or a little green-gold oil for a nistisimo table.

Advance Preparation

• •Start the chickpea ferment the night before, 10 to 12 hours ahead; the bread depends on it.
• •The loaves can be baked 1 day ahead. Let them cool completely, then wrap in a clean cloth.
• •Crack the chickpeas and measure the flour and spices the day before so the warm stages move without delay.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 80g)