
Chef Isabel
Albergínies Farcides Mallorquines
Albergínies farcides are Mallorca's summer stuffed aubergines: tender boiled shells, a slow pork sofrito with moraduix, and a plain breadcrumb cap baked until the top turns crisp and golden.
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Asturias turns plain potatoes into spoon food: hollowed, filled with jamón and tomato sofrito, sealed in hot oil, then braised in saffron broth until the potato gives cleanly.
Patatas rellenas Asturianas are Asturias at its most practical: potatoes hollowed out, packed with a small jamón and tomato sofrito, sealed in flour and egg, then braised in a saffron broth until tender. Esto es de Asturias, no de "España" a secas. It belongs to the same home table as the stews, frugal, filling, and better than its ingredients have any right to be.
The method that decides it is the first fry. Put the filled side into the oil first and let the egg set before you move the potato. That seal keeps the stuffing where it belongs while the broth works its way in slowly. Rush that part and the filling drifts into the sauce, which still feeds you, yes, but it isn't the dish.
If you can't find Spanish jamón where you are, use a good dry-cured ham, not sweet boiled ham. It will be less deep and a little less salty, so taste the broth before you add more salt. No hace falta haber pisado España. Use firm potatoes, cook the sofrito low until it goes dark and sweet, and braise gently. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
In the Margin of my notebook, beside this one, I wrote only: "filled side down first." Some recipes need pages of warning. This one needs that line and a calm hand.
Patatas rellenas belong to the everyday Asturian home kitchen, where potatoes, cured pork, onion, and a little saffron could be made into a proper dish without needing a rich cut of meat. The preparation sits close to cocina de cuchara, spoon food, because the stuffed potatoes are not served dry; they finish in a yellow broth that turns into a light sauce around them. Like many Asturian household dishes, it shows the preserving larder at work, with jamón or other cured pork giving depth to a cheap, filling potato.
Quantity
8, about 1kg total
peeled
Quantity
4 tablespoons, plus more for shallow frying
Quantity
1 medium
finely chopped
Quantity
2 cloves
minced
Quantity
120g
finely chopped
Quantity
250g
grated
Quantity
200g
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon, plus more to finish
chopped
Quantity
2
beaten
Quantity
60g
Quantity
750ml
Quantity
1 pinch
Quantity
1
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| medium waxy potatoespeeled | 8, about 1kg total |
| olive oil | 4 tablespoons, plus more for shallow frying |
| onionfinely chopped | 1 medium |
| garlicminced | 2 cloves |
| jamón serranofinely chopped | 120g |
| ripe tomatoesgrated | 250g |
| canned crushed tomato (optional) | 200g |
| dry white wine | 2 tablespoons |
| parsleychopped | 1 tablespoon, plus more to finish |
| large eggsbeaten | 2 |
| plain flour | 60g |
| light chicken broth or water | 750ml |
| saffron threads | 1 pinch |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
Cut a thin slice from one long side of each potato so it sits steady, then hollow the other side with a small spoon or melon baller, leaving walls about 1cm thick. Keep the scooped potato pieces in cold water; a handful will go into the sauce and the rest can be saved for soup. Salt the hollowed potatoes lightly inside.
Warm 4 tablespoons olive oil in a frying pan and cook the onion with a pinch of salt over low heat for 12 to 15 minutes, until soft, dark gold, and sweet. Add the garlic for 1 minute, then the jamón, grated tomato, and white wine. Cook until the tomato loses its raw edge and the pan is thick, not watery. This sofrito, the slow onion base, is the flavor of the filling, so don't hurry it.
Stir the parsley into the sofrito and let it cool for 5 minutes so it thickens. Pack the filling into the hollow of each potato, pressing it in firmly but not mounding it high. Put the flour in one shallow dish and the beaten eggs in another. Dip the filled opening first into flour, then into egg, coating the rim well.
Heat 1cm olive oil in a wide pan over medium heat. Set each potato in the oil filled side down first and leave it alone until the egg sets and turns golden, about 2 minutes. Then turn the potatoes carefully and brown the other sides lightly. This is the seal. Move too early and the stuffing escapes.
Transfer the potatoes to a wide cazuela or heavy pot, filled side up. Pour off excess frying oil, leaving 1 tablespoon in the pan, and add a small handful of the reserved scooped potato pieces. Stir them for a minute, then add the broth or water, saffron, bay leaf, and a little black pepper. Scrape up the browned bits and pour everything around the potatoes.
Bring the liquid just to a simmer, cover partly, and cook gently for 35 to 45 minutes, until a knife slides into the potatoes without force. Keep the bubble low; a hard boil knocks the seal loose and clouds the sauce. Shake the pot now and then instead of stirring.
Rest the potatoes off the heat for 10 minutes so the sauce settles and clings. Taste the broth for salt only at the end, because the jamón gives itself slowly. Serve two potatoes per person in shallow bowls, with saffron broth spooned around them and a little parsley over the top.
1 serving (about 500g)
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