Patatas Rellenas Asturianas

Patatas rellenas Asturianas are Asturias at its most practical: potatoes hollowed out, packed with a small jamón and tomato sofrito, sealed in flour and egg, then braised in a saffron broth until tender. Esto es de Asturias, no de "España" a secas. It belongs to the same home table as the stews, frugal, filling, and better than its ingredients have any right to be.

The method that decides it is the first fry. Put the filled side into the oil first and let the egg set before you move the potato. That seal keeps the stuffing where it belongs while the broth works its way in slowly. Rush that part and the filling drifts into the sauce, which still feeds you, yes, but it isn't the dish.

If you can't find Spanish jamón where you are, use a good dry-cured ham, not sweet boiled ham. It will be less deep and a little less salty, so taste the broth before you add more salt. No hace falta haber pisado España. Use firm potatoes, cook the sofrito low until it goes dark and sweet, and braise gently. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.

In the Margin of my notebook, beside this one, I wrote only: "filled side down first." Some recipes need pages of warning. This one needs that line and a calm hand.