
Chef Margarida
Areias de Cascais
The sand cookies of Cascais, where three simple ingredients become something that melts on your tongue and sparkles like the beach at sunset. Butter, flour, sugar. That's all. That's enough.
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The half-moon pastries of Coimbra's cloistered nuns, crisp golden shells cradling a rich almond and egg yolk cream that speaks of centuries when convents fed both souls and sweet teeth.
These pastries came to me through a story before they ever came to my table. A grandmother in Coimbra, Dona Amélia, ninety-two years old and sharp as a blade, told me how her mother would walk to the convent of Santa Clara and ring the bell at the roda, the wooden turnstile where the cloistered nuns passed their sweets to the outside world without being seen. You'd leave your coins, the roda would turn, and out would come these golden half-moons, still warm, wrapped in paper.
The nuns of Santa Clara had egg yolks in abundance. They used the whites to starch their habits and clarify communion wine, so they transformed what remained into treasure. Almonds, sugar, yolks, a whisper of cinnamon. Wrapped in pastry thin as paper, shaped like a crescent moon, baked until golden.
I've made these dozens of times now, testing proportions, adjusting the dough until it crisps without shattering, perfecting the filling until it holds but still melts on the tongue. Dona Amélia tasted my version and nodded slowly. That's as close as you'll get to praise from a Coimbra grandmother.
The technique requires patience. The dough must rest. The filling must cool. The shaping takes practice. But when you bite through that crackling shell into the rich almond cream, you'll understand why these pastries survived the centuries.
Pastéis de Santa Clara originated in the Mosteiro de Santa Clara in Coimbra, founded in 1314 by Queen Isabel of Portugal, later canonized as Rainha Santa Isabel. The nuns began selling these almond-filled pastries through the convent's roda to support their community, finding eager customers among the students of Coimbra's ancient university. When religious orders were dissolved in 1834, local confeitarias preserved the recipes, ensuring these half-moon treasures survived.
Quantity
300g
plus more for rolling
Quantity
1 large
Quantity
60g
softened
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
200g
Quantity
200g
Quantity
6 large
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1
zested
Quantity
for dusting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus more for rolling | 300g |
| egg | 1 large |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 60g |
| dry white wine | 60ml |
| fine salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| blanched almonds | 200g |
| granulated sugar | 200g |
| egg yolks | 6 large |
| ground cinnamon | 1/2 teaspoon |
| lemonzested | 1 |
| powdered sugar | for dusting |
In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt. Make a well in the center. Add the egg, softened butter, and white wine. Mix with your hands, bringing the dough together until it forms a smooth, elastic ball. It should be pliable but not sticky. If too dry, add wine by the teaspoon. If too sticky, dust with flour. Knead for 2 to 3 minutes until silky. Wrap tightly and rest at room temperature for at least 1 hour.
Process the blanched almonds in a food processor until they form a fine meal. Be careful not to overprocess or they'll turn to butter. You want a sandy texture, like coarse flour. Some tiny pieces are fine. That's character.
In a heavy saucepan, combine the ground almonds, sugar, egg yolks, cinnamon, and lemon zest. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture thickens and pulls away from the sides of the pan, about 8 to 10 minutes. It should be thick enough to hold its shape when mounded. Remove from heat and let cool completely. The filling must be cold before shaping or it will melt through the dough.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Line two baking sheets with parchment. Divide the rested dough into four pieces. Work with one piece at a time, keeping the rest covered. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough as thin as you can manage, nearly translucent, about 1mm thick. The nuns rolled theirs thin enough to read prayers through. You're aiming for paper, not cardboard.
Using a round cutter about 8cm in diameter, cut circles from the dough. Place a heaping teaspoon of cooled filling in the center of each circle. Don't overfill. The temptation is real, but overfilled pastéis burst in the oven. Fold the dough over to form a half-moon and press the edges firmly with a fork to seal. The fork marks aren't decoration. They're insurance.
Arrange the pastéis on the prepared baking sheets, leaving space between them. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until deep golden and crisp. The edges should be starting to brown. Remove to a wire rack and let cool for 10 minutes.
Dust the cooled pastéis generously with powdered sugar through a fine sieve. Let it snow on them. Serve at room temperature. They're best the day they're made, when the pastry is at its crispest, but they'll keep in an airtight container for 2 to 3 days. If they last that long.
1 serving (about 40g)
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