Pasta e Ceci alla Romana

Pasta e ceci is Rome's answer to the question of how to feed a family when there is almost nothing in the house. Dried chickpeas, which last for years. A handful of pasta, broken if necessary. Rosemary from the bush growing outside the kitchen door. Garlic, olive oil, and time. From these, generations of Roman home cooks have created something that rivals any elaborate dish.

The chickpeas must be dried, not canned. I know this takes planning. I know you must soak them overnight. This is not negotiable. Canned chickpeas have a tinny taste and a texture that falls apart. Dried chickpeas, properly cooked, hold their shape while yielding to the tooth. The cooking liquid becomes your broth, rich with the essence of the legume itself.

The anchovy is traditional in many Roman versions, though not universal. It dissolves completely into the soffritto, leaving no fish taste, only depth. If you object to anchovy, you may omit it, but you will miss something. The rosemary is not optional. It is the soul of this dish, the flavor that announces this is Roman and nothing else.