
Chef Graziella
Arancini alla Siciliana
Golden fried rice balls from Sicily, where Arab culinary influence meets Italian home cooking. The saffron-perfumed rice conceals a heart of slow-simmered ragù and sweet peas.
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The fried dough pockets of Puglia, filled with nothing but good tomato and stretchy mozzarella, then dropped into hot oil until blistered and golden. Street food that proves restraint creates addiction.
In Bari, you find panzerotti at every corner friggitoria, handed to you in wax paper still hot from the oil. They are not calzones. Do not call them that. Calzones are baked. Panzerotti are fried. This distinction matters more than you might think.
The dough must be soft, almost too soft to handle. This is correct. A stiff dough fries tough and chewy. You want something pillowy, alive with yeast, that blisters into golden bubbles the moment it hits the oil. The filling is sparse: drained tomatoes, cubed mozzarella, nothing more. Americans want to add things. They think more ingredients mean more flavor. The opposite is true.
What you keep out is as significant as what you put in. No garlic. No herbs beyond a whisper of oregano. No ricotta, no sausage, no spinach. When you bite through that crisp shell into molten mozzarella and sweet tomato, you understand why Pugliese grandmothers have made them exactly this way for generations.
Panzerotti emerged in Puglia's street food culture by the mid-19th century, when the tomato had finally conquered southern Italian cooking and friggitorie began appearing in cities like Bari and Taranto. The name derives from 'panza,' meaning belly, a reference to their plump, stuffed shape. Each town claims its panzerotti are the authentic ones; the arguments continue to this day.
Quantity
500g, plus more for dusting
Quantity
7g (1 packet)
Quantity
300ml (about 100°F)
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 can (400g)
drained and chopped
Quantity
250g
cut into small cubes and drained
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
about 1.5 liters, for frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| tipo 00 flour | 500g, plus more for dusting |
| active dry yeast | 7g (1 packet) |
| warm water | 300ml (about 100°F) |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| San Marzano tomatoesdrained and chopped | 1 can (400g) |
| fresh mozzarella (fior di latte)cut into small cubes and drained | 250g |
| dried oregano | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt for filling | pinch |
| vegetable or peanut oil | about 1.5 liters, for frying |
Dissolve the yeast in the warm water and let it stand until foamy, about 10 minutes. If your yeast does not foam, it is dead. Discard it and start again with fresh yeast. There is no saving dead dough.
Place the flour in a large bowl and make a well in the center. Add the salt around the edges, then pour the yeast mixture and olive oil into the well. Stir with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms, then turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead for 8 to 10 minutes until smooth, soft, and slightly tacky. The dough should spring back when pressed. Do not add too much flour. A soft dough fries better.
Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about one hour. The timing depends on your kitchen. In summer it may take 45 minutes. In winter, longer. Watch the dough, not the clock.
While the dough rises, drain the tomatoes thoroughly. Squeeze them gently to remove excess liquid, then chop them roughly. Place in a bowl. Cut the mozzarella into small cubes, no larger than a centimeter. Drain these as well on paper towels. Wet filling makes soggy panzerotti. Add the mozzarella to the tomatoes along with the oregano and a pinch of salt. Mix gently.
Punch down the risen dough and divide it into 12 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball, then flatten with a rolling pin into a circle about 12 centimeters across. The edges should be slightly thinner than the center. Place a generous tablespoon of filling on one half of each circle, leaving a border of about one centimeter. Fold the dough over to form a half-moon and press the edges firmly to seal. Crimp with a fork. The seal must be complete or they will open in the oil.
Pour oil into a heavy pot to a depth of at least 8 centimeters. Heat over medium-high until a thermometer reads 170°C (340°F). If you do not have a thermometer, drop a small piece of dough into the oil. It should sink, then rise immediately to the surface and begin to bubble actively. Adjust heat to maintain temperature.
Working in batches of two or three (never crowd the pot), slip the panzerotti into the hot oil. Fry until deep golden brown on the bottom, about 2 minutes, then turn and fry the other side. The total frying time is 4 to 5 minutes. They should be blistered and golden all over. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
Let the panzerotti rest for one minute before serving. The filling inside is molten and will burn your mouth if you are impatient. Serve hot. Once the pasta is sauced, serve it promptly, inviting your guests and family to put off talking and start eating. Panzerotti that sit become leathery. There is no reheating them properly.
1 serving (about 125g)
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