Pan di Ramerino

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large mixing bowl
• •Wooden spoon
• •Clean work surface for kneading
• •Two baking sheets
• •Parchment paper
• •Wire cooling rack
• •Pastry brush
• •Sharp knife for scoring

Instructions

1. 1

   Soak the raisins

   Place the raisins in a small bowl and pour the vin santo over them. Let them soak for at least 30 minutes, or up to several hours. The raisins will plump and absorb the wine's honeyed flavor. Drain before using, but save any remaining liquid to brush on the finished buns.

2. 2

   Prepare the rosemary

   Strip the rosemary leaves from their woody stems. Chop them fine with a sharp knife. The pieces should be small enough to distribute evenly through the dough without creating pockets of intense flavor. You want rosemary in every bite, not a surprise attack in one.

3. 3

   Mix the dough

   In a large bowl, combine the flour, yeast, and sugar. Stir to distribute the yeast. Add the salt, keeping it away from direct contact with the yeast. Pour in the olive oil and warm water. Stir with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms, then turn it out onto a clean work surface.

   The water temperature matters. Too hot kills the yeast. Too cold slows it. Your finger should feel pleasant warmth, nothing more.
4. 4

   Knead the dough

   Knead the dough firmly for 10 minutes. Push it away with the heel of your hand, fold it back, turn it a quarter, repeat. The dough will transform from rough and sticky to smooth and elastic. When you poke it with a finger, it should spring back slowly. This is gluten development, and you cannot skip it.

5. 5

   Add raisins and rosemary

   Flatten the dough into a rough rectangle. Scatter the drained raisins and chopped rosemary over the surface. Roll the dough up, then knead it gently to distribute the additions throughout. The dough will become slightly lumpy from the raisins. This is correct.

6. 6

   First rise

   Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with a damp kitchen towel or plastic wrap. Let it rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 to 1½ hours. The timing depends on your kitchen's temperature. Watch the dough, not the clock.

   A slightly warm oven works well for rising. Turn it on for one minute, then off. Place the covered dough inside. The residual warmth creates an ideal environment.
7. 7

   Shape the buns

   Punch down the risen dough to release the gas. Turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces, each about 75g. Shape each piece into a smooth round by cupping it under your palm and rolling it in a circular motion against the work surface. The surface tension creates the shape.

8. 8

   Second rise

   Place the shaped buns on two parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing them at least 5cm apart. They will spread as they rise. Cover loosely with a kitchen towel and let rise until puffy and nearly doubled, about 45 minutes to 1 hour.

9. 9

   Prepare for baking

   Preheat your oven to 190°C (375°F). If following tradition, use a sharp knife to slash a cross into the top of each bun. Brush the tops generously with olive oil. The oil creates the characteristic golden, slightly crisp crust.

10. 10

    Bake

    Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through for even browning. The buns are done when deeply golden on top and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. Remove from the oven and brush immediately with any remaining vin santo soaking liquid or additional olive oil.

    If your oven runs hot, check at 18 minutes. Overbaked pan di ramerino becomes dry. The interior should remain soft and slightly moist.
11. 11

    Cool and serve

    Transfer the buns to a wire rack. Let them cool for at least 15 minutes before eating, though they are also excellent at room temperature. The rosemary fragrance will fill your kitchen. This is how Florentine homes smell on Holy Thursday.

Chef Tips

• •Fresh rosemary is essential. Dried rosemary becomes woody and sharp in baked goods. If you cannot find fresh rosemary, do not make this bread. Make something else.
• •Vin santo is traditional, but any amber dessert wine works. In its absence, warm water with a teaspoon of honey approximates the effect. It will not be the same, but it will be acceptable.
• •The olive oil should be Tuscan if possible, with grassy, peppery notes. The oil you use to brush the buns before baking becomes part of the flavor.
• •These buns are best the day they are made. By the second day, they benefit from a brief warming in a low oven. By the third day, slice them and toast them.

Advance Preparation

• •The raisins can soak in vin santo overnight. They become plumper and more flavorful with longer soaking.
• •The dough can be made the night before and refrigerated after the first rise. Let it come to room temperature for 30 minutes before shaping.
• •Baked buns freeze well for up to one month. Thaw at room temperature and warm briefly before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 85g)