
Chef Graziella
Biove Piemontesi
The boat-shaped bread rolls of Piedmont, crusty and substantial, built on an overnight biga that gives them character no quick bread can match. Northern Italian baking at its most honest.
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The great round loaf of Sardinia, built from golden semolina and baked until the crust turns nearly black. Shepherds carried this bread into the hills because it kept for weeks without staling.
Sardinia sits in the middle of the Mediterranean, and for centuries its people looked inward, not outward. The island developed its own bread traditions, distinct from the mainland, shaped by the needs of shepherds who spent months in the hills with their flocks. Civraxiu was their daily bread. It had to keep.
The name comes from the Latin cibariu, meaning food or sustenance. This is not a dinner roll or a baguette to be eaten fresh and forgotten. This is a bread meant to last. The thick crust, almost black from high heat, seals the crumb inside. The semolina, ground from the hard durum wheat that thrives in Sardinia's dry climate, resists staling far longer than soft wheat flour. A properly made civraxiu remains good for a week, acceptable for two.
The crumb is dense and golden, with an almost sweet, wheaty fragrance that soft bread cannot achieve. Sardinians slice it thick and use it as a foundation for their sharp pecorino, their cured meats, their olive oil. The bread does not compete with these flavors. It carries them.
Civraxiu has been the daily bread of southern Sardinia, particularly the Campidano plain, for centuries. Before village bakeries, families baked once a week in communal wood-fired ovens, each household marking their loaves with a personal stamp. The bread's extraordinary keeping quality made it essential for shepherds practicing transhumance, the seasonal movement of flocks to highland pastures.
Quantity
500g
Quantity
100g
Quantity
400g
at room temperature
Quantity
12g
Quantity
3g
Quantity
as needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| semola rimacinata | 500g |
| bread flour | 100g |
| waterat room temperature | 400g |
| fine sea salt | 12g |
| instant yeast | 3g |
| semolina for dusting | as needed |
In a large bowl, whisk together the semola rimacinata and bread flour. The semolina gives this bread its characteristic golden color and sweet, wheaty flavor. The small addition of bread flour provides structure that pure semolina lacks. Make a well in the center.
Add the yeast to the water and stir to dissolve. Pour the water into the well and begin mixing with your hand or a wooden spoon, gradually incorporating the flour from the edges. When a shaggy mass forms, add the salt and continue mixing until no dry flour remains. The dough will feel sticky and rough. This is correct.
Turn the dough onto an unfloured surface. Knead for 10 to 12 minutes, until the dough becomes smooth, elastic, and only slightly tacky. Semolina dough requires patience. It develops slowly but eventually becomes supple and extensible. When you stretch a small piece, it should form a thin, translucent membrane without tearing.
Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel. Let it rise at room temperature until doubled in volume, 2 to 3 hours. For deeper flavor, refrigerate overnight and let it return to room temperature before shaping, about 2 hours.
Generously dust your work surface with semolina. Turn out the dough and gently press it into a rough rectangle, releasing some gas but not all. Fold the sides toward the center, then roll the dough toward you, tucking it under itself to create surface tension. Cup your hands around the dough and drag it toward you on an unfloured section of counter, letting friction tighten the ball. The loaf should be round and taut.
Dust a proofing basket or a bowl lined with a floured towel generously with semolina. Place the shaped loaf seam-side up in the basket. Cover loosely and let rise until the dough springs back slowly when pressed with a floured finger, 1 to 2 hours depending on room temperature. It should hold an indentation but not collapse.
One hour before baking, place a Dutch oven with its lid in your oven and heat to 250°C (480°F). The pot must be blazing hot. This trapped heat and steam mimics the wood-fired ovens of Sardinian bakeries, creating the thick, dark crust that defines civraxiu.
Carefully turn the proofed loaf onto a piece of parchment paper, seam-side down. With a sharp blade or razor, score the top with a single deep slash or a cross. The cut should be decisive, about half a centimeter deep. Working quickly, remove the hot pot from the oven, lower the bread into it using the parchment as a sling, and cover with the lid.
Bake covered for 30 minutes. The steam trapped under the lid allows the crust to expand fully. Remove the lid, reduce temperature to 220°C (425°F), and continue baking until the crust is deeply bronzed, almost mahogany, another 20 to 25 minutes. The internal temperature should reach 98°C (208°F). The loaf will sound hollow when thumped on the bottom.
Transfer the bread to a wire rack. Do not cut it for at least two hours. The crumb is still setting, moisture still redistributing. Cutting too soon gives you gummy bread and wastes the work you have done. Listen to it crackle as it cools. This is the bread singing.
1 serving (about 100g)
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