Oreja Frita Madrileña

Oreja frita Madrileña belongs to Madrid's old casquería cooking, the plain, clever use of the parts of the pig that a good kitchen never wasted. It is not delicate food, and it shouldn't pretend to be. The ear is simmered tender first, then cut small and fried until the outside crackles a little while the inside stays sticky and soft. That contrast is the dish.

The method that decides it is the pause between boiling and frying. Cook the ear until a knife slips through the thick base, then cool it, dry it, and let the surface firm before it touches hot oil. If you fry it wet, it spits and stews. If you dry it properly, the edges catch, the garlic perfumes the oil, and the pimentón stains everything brick red. Pésalo, no lo adivines, especially with the salt and pimentón.

If you are far from Madrid, no hace falta haber pisado España. Ask a butcher for cleaned pig ears, or use frozen ones from an Asian or Latin market; they work well, and often better than sad fresh ones sitting too long in a case. If the ears are already cooked, shorten the simmer and concentrate on drying them well. Siempre sale, si lo sigues. Serve it hot, with bread, lemon if you like, and no fuss.