
Chef Isabel
Berenjenas Fritas con Miel de Caña
Berenjenas fritas con miel de caña are Andalusian: thin aubergine slices fried crisp and finished with dark cane syrup, where the trick is dry aubergine, hot oil, and no crowding.
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Borrajas rebozadas are Aragón's quiet winter fry: young borage leaves washed well, dried hard, dragged through a thin egg batter, and fried until the leaf goes crisp and the center stays green.
Borrajas rebozadas are Aragón's, especially the huerta around Zaragoza where borraja is treated like a proper winter vegetable, not a weed with pretty blue flowers. The stalks usually go into the pot with potatoes, but the tender leaves have their own small reward: flour, egg, oil, salt, and a few minutes in the pan until they crisp at the edges.
What makes this the Aragonese dish is the borraja itself. It has a clean, green, slightly mineral taste, a little like cucumber met a winter leaf. Don't bury it under a heavy batter. Wash the leaves well, dry them harder than you think you need to, and keep the batter thin enough that the green shows through after frying. That is the whole trick.
If you can't find borraja where you are, use young Swiss chard leaves, acelga, or tender beet greens. They won't have the same mineral bite, and they fry a little softer, but they are the honest substitute a Spanish kitchen would reach for before pretending spinach is the same thing. No hace falta haber pisado España. You do need good leaves and hot oil.
In the Margin beside this one I wrote only: "secan o fallan," they dry or they fail. It sounds severe, but it isn't. Nadie nace sabiendo. The first batch teaches your hand the oil, and the next one comes out right.
Borraja is one of Aragón's emblematic winter vegetables, especially in the irrigated Ebro valley, where the pale green stalks are cooked in everyday home dishes with potato, olive oil, and sometimes a little garlic. The tender leaves were not wasted; they were battered and fried, either as a plain savory fry like this one or, in Alto Aragón, as sweet crespillos de borraja dusted with sugar for the feast of the Encarnación. The dish belongs to the old household habit of making a treat from the part of the vegetable another cook might throw away.
Quantity
200g
about 24 medium leaves, stems trimmed
Quantity
100g
80g for batter, 20g for dusting
Quantity
1
about 55g without shell
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
3g, plus more to finish
Quantity
500ml
for frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| young borage leavesabout 24 medium leaves, stems trimmed | 200g |
| plain flour80g for batter, 20g for dusting | 100g |
| large eggabout 55g without shell | 1 |
| cold water | 120ml |
| fine sea salt | 3g, plus more to finish |
| mild olive oilfor frying | 500ml |
Choose young borage leaves, the tender ones no longer than your hand. Trim away thick stems, then swish the leaves in two changes of cold water, lifting them out so the grit stays behind. Dry them very well in a salad spinner and then on a clean towel. The small hairs soften in the oil, but water on the leaf is what spits and makes the batter slide off.
Whisk 80g of the flour with the egg, cold water, and 3g salt until you have a thin batter, closer to single cream than dough. Let it rest for 10 minutes while the oil heats. This is the step that decides the dish: a thin batter lets the leaf fry crisp and green underneath; a thick one gives you a heavy fritter with the borraja hidden inside.
Pour the olive oil into a heavy frying pan to a depth of about 2cm and heat it to 175 to 180C. Without a thermometer, drop in a thread of batter: it should sink for a breath, rise at once, and fizz steadily without turning dark right away. Too cool and the leaves drink oil; too hot and the batter browns before the borraja softens.
Put the remaining 20g flour on a plate. Dust a leaf lightly, tap off every bit of excess, dip it into the batter, let it drip for a second, and lay it flat into the oil away from you. Fry 4 or 5 leaves at a time for 45 to 60 seconds on the first side, then 30 to 45 seconds on the second, until the edges are pale gold and crisp and the green still shows through.
Lift the leaves to a rack or kitchen paper and salt them while they are still glossy from the oil. Serve them at once, piled loose, not covered, or they soften. Siempre sale, si lo sigues: dry leaves, thin batter, hot oil, and no crowding in the pan.
1 serving (about 90g)
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Chef Isabel
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