Olive all'Ascolana

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Deep-fry or candy thermometer
• •Heavy pot for deep frying (at least 4-quart capacity)
• •Meat grinder or food processor
• •Three shallow bowls for breading station
• •Slotted spoon
• •Wire rack or paper towels for draining

Instructions

1. 1

   Pit the olives

   Using a small sharp knife, make a spiral cut around each olive from top to bottom, following the natural curve of the fruit. Work the flesh away from the pit in one continuous piece, keeping the olive as intact as possible. The olive should open like a small scroll. Discard the pits. This takes patience. There are no shortcuts.

   True Ascolane tenere olives from Le Marche are enormous and tender-fleshed, bred specifically for stuffing. If you cannot find them, Cerignola olives from Puglia are acceptable. Small olives are not worth the effort.
2. 2

   Build the soffritto

   In a heavy skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery. Cook slowly until the vegetables are completely soft and the onion is pale gold, about 12 minutes. Do not let them brown. One can often trace the unsatisfying taste of would-be Italian dishes to the reluctance of cooks to execute this step thoroughly.

3. 3

   Braise the meats

   Add the pork, beef, and chicken to the soffritto. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Turn the meat to coat it with the vegetables. Add the wine and let it bubble until nearly evaporated, about 3 minutes. Add the broth, reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until the meat is completely tender and falling apart, about 45 minutes. Check occasionally and add a splash of water if the pan becomes dry.

4. 4

   Grind the filling

   Let the braised meat cool slightly. Transfer everything, including any liquid remaining in the pan, to a meat grinder fitted with the fine plate. Grind twice. If you lack a meat grinder, pulse in a food processor until very fine and smooth, scraping down the sides often. The texture should be like a paste, not chunky.

   A meat grinder produces the authentic texture. A food processor will work, but you must process until truly smooth. Coarse filling will not pack properly into the olives.
5. 5

   Season the filling

   Transfer the ground meat to a bowl. Beat one of the eggs lightly and add it to the meat along with the Parmigiano-Reggiano and nutmeg. Mix thoroughly with your hands until uniform. The mixture should hold together when squeezed. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. The filling must be well-seasoned; the olive will dilute its flavor.

6. 6

   Stuff the olives

   Take a small amount of filling, about the size of a marble. Press it into the cavity of each pitted olive, wrapping the olive flesh around it and pressing gently to reshape the olive into its original form. The filling should be completely enclosed. If the olive tears, press it together; the breading will hold it. Repeat with all olives.

7. 7

   Set up the breading station

   Place the flour in a shallow bowl. Beat the remaining egg in a second shallow bowl. Place the breadcrumbs in a third. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Work in batches: roll each stuffed olive first in flour, shaking off excess, then in egg, letting excess drip off, then in breadcrumbs, pressing gently to adhere. Place on the prepared sheet. The coating must be complete with no gaps.

8. 8

   Chill the breaded olives

   Refrigerate the breaded olives for at least 30 minutes. This sets the coating and prevents it from falling off during frying. You may refrigerate them for up to 24 hours, covered loosely with plastic wrap.

9. 9

   Fry until golden

   Pour vegetable oil into a heavy pot to a depth of 3 inches. Heat to 350°F on a deep-fry thermometer. Fry the olives in batches of 8 to 10, without crowding. They should sizzle immediately upon contact with the oil. Turn them occasionally with a slotted spoon. Fry until deep golden brown and crisp all over, 2 to 3 minutes. The internal filling is already cooked; you are crisping the exterior.

   Maintain the oil temperature between 340°F and 360°F. Too cool and the olives absorb oil and turn greasy. Too hot and they brown before heating through. Use a thermometer. Guessing leads to failure.
10. 10

    Drain and serve immediately

    Transfer the fried olives to a plate lined with paper towels. Season with a light sprinkle of salt while still hot. Let rest only one minute, then transfer to a serving plate. Serve immediately with lemon wedges. These do not wait. Once the pasta is sauced, serve it promptly, inviting your guests to put off talking and start eating. The same applies here.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out Ascolana tenere or Cerignola olives from Italian specialty grocers. The giant green olives sold in bulk at Greek or Middle Eastern markets may also work. The olive must be large enough to hold a meaningful amount of filling.
• •The filling can be made two days ahead and refrigerated. In fact, it improves. Let it come to room temperature before stuffing, as cold filling is difficult to work with.
• •In Ascoli Piceno, these are traditionally served alongside cremini fritti (fried lamb cutlets) and carciofi fritti (fried artichokes) as part of the fritto misto all'Ascolana. The combination is magnificent and excessive in equal measure.
• •Leftover stuffed olives, though diminished, can be reheated in a 400°F oven for 8 minutes. They will not be as crisp but remain satisfying.

Advance Preparation

• •The meat filling can be made up to two days ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before stuffing.
• •Stuffed and breaded olives can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours before frying. Fry directly from cold; they need only an extra 30 seconds.
• •Do not freeze after frying. The breading turns soggy upon thawing. If you must freeze, freeze the unbreaded stuffed olives, then bread and fry from frozen, adding one minute to the frying time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 125g)