
Chef Lupita
Birria Tacos with Consome
Jalisco's goat birria, born around Cocula and carried into Guadalajara's markets, slow-braised in ancho, guajillo, cascabel, and chile de arbol, then tucked into corn tortillas crisped in its own red fat.
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Nayarit's Pacific coast taco, built with golden breaded shrimp, corn tortillas, shredded cabbage, chipotle crema, chile de arbol salsa, and enough lime to taste the beach.
Nayarit lives on the Pacific, from San Blas down toward Bahía de Banderas, and shrimp is not a luxury there. It is Tuesday lunch. These tacos de camarón empanizado belong to the coastal palapas and home kitchens where women know how to fry seafood fast, keep it crisp, and put it into a corn tortilla before anyone starts talking too much.
The shrimp is the point. Buy good Pacific shrimp if you can, fresh when the market is honest, frozen when the so-called fresh case smells tired. Pregúntale a las señoras del mercado. They will tell you which vendor got the better catch. The breading is plain pan molido, not a heavy batter, because the shrimp should still taste like shrimp. The cabbage gives crunch, the chipotle crema gives smoke, and the salsa de chile de arbol gives the bite that Nayarit tables expect.
Do not bring me cheddar, iceberg lettuce, or sour cream and call it Mexican. This is a 32-state cuisine. In Nayarit, the ocean sets the rhythm and the comal still matters. Warm corn tortillas, a clay bowl of salsa, lime halves on the table, and a bottle of Salsa Huichol if your family keeps one near the salt. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
Nayarit's coast has depended on shrimp, oysters, and finfish since long before statehood in 1917, with Indigenous Cora, Huichol, and coastal communities using estuaries and lagoons around San Blas as food sources. Breaded and fried seafood tacos became especially common in the 20th century as beach palapas and market fondas adapted European-style empanizado to local Pacific shrimp and corn tortillas. Salsa Huichol, created in Tepic in 1949 by Don Roberto López, became one of Nayarit's best-known table sauces and is still tied to seafood eating across the state.
Quantity
1 pound
peeled, deveined, and tails removed
Quantity
1 teaspoon, divided
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
crushed between your fingers
Quantity
1
juiced
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 cups
for frying
Quantity
12
warmed
Quantity
2 cups
finely shredded
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1
finely minced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for the crema
Quantity
4
Quantity
6
stemmed
Quantity
1
unpeeled
Quantity
1/4 small
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
for the salsa
Quantity
2 tablespoons
as needed for the salsa
Quantity
1/4 cup
chopped
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for the table
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large Pacific shrimppeeled, deveined, and tails removed | 1 pound |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, divided |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| dried Mexican oreganocrushed between your fingers | 1 teaspoon |
| limejuiced | 1 |
| all-purpose flour | 3/4 cup |
| large eggs | 2 |
| whole milk | 1 tablespoon |
| fine plain bread crumbs or pan molido | 1 1/2 cups |
| garlic powder | 1/2 teaspoon |
| neutral oil, such as avocado oil or canola oilfor frying | 2 cups |
| hand-pressed corn tortillaswarmed | 12 |
| green cabbagefinely shredded | 2 cups |
| Mexican crema | 1/3 cup |
| mayonnaise | 2 tablespoons |
| canned chile chipotle en adobofinely minced | 1 |
| adobo sauce from the can | 1 teaspoon |
| fresh lime juicefor the crema | 1 tablespoon |
| ripe Roma tomatoes | 4 |
| dried chile de arbolstemmed | 6 |
| garlic cloveunpeeled | 1 |
| white onion | 1/4 small |
| kosher saltfor the salsa | 1/2 teaspoon |
| wateras needed for the salsa | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh cilantrochopped | 1/4 cup |
| lime wedges (optional) | for serving |
| Salsa Huichol or another Nayarit-style bottled chile sauce (optional) | for the table |
Pat the shrimp completely dry. Toss them with 1/2 teaspoon salt, black pepper, Mexican oregano, and the juice of 1 lime. Let them sit for 10 minutes, no longer. Lime wakes up the shrimp, but if you leave it too long you start making ceviche, and that is not this taco.
Heat a dry comal over medium. Roast the Roma tomatoes, chile de arbol, unpeeled garlic, and white onion. The chiles need only 15 to 20 seconds per side, just until they darken a shade and smell sharp. The tomatoes need 8 to 10 minutes, turning often, until the skins blister and soften. Peel the garlic. Blend everything with 1/2 teaspoon salt and just enough water to move the blades. The salsa should be red, direct, and a little rough, not watery.
Stir together the Mexican crema, mayonnaise, minced chipotle en adobo, adobo sauce, and 1 tablespoon lime juice. Taste it. It should be smoky and tangy, not sweet. This is crema, not sour cream. Use the right thing.
Put the flour in one shallow dish. Beat the eggs with the milk in a second dish. Mix the bread crumbs with garlic powder and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt in a third dish. Lift the shrimp out of their seasoning and pat off excess moisture. Dredge each shrimp in flour, dip in egg, then press into the bread crumbs so the coating holds. Lay them on a tray for 5 minutes. That rest keeps the breading from falling off in the oil.
Heat the oil in a heavy skillet to 350F. Fry the shrimp in small batches, about 90 seconds per side, until the coating is deep golden and crisp under the tongs. Do not crowd the pan. Shrimp cooks fast, and overcooked shrimp turns tight and rubbery. Drain on a rack, not paper towels, so the bottom stays crisp.
Warm the corn tortillas on a dry comal until they soften and show a few toasted spots. Keep them wrapped in a clean cotton servilleta. Flour tortillas are a northern tradition. These Nayarit coast tacos belong in corn tortillas. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Lay two or three shrimp in each warm tortilla. Add shredded cabbage, a spoonful of chipotle crema, a line of salsa de chile de arbol, chopped cilantro, and lime. Serve immediately while the shrimp coating is still crisp and the cabbage is cold against it. Beach food, yes. Careless food, no. Así se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 380g)
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