
Chef Isabel
Bicicleta Murciana (Ensaladilla sobre Rosquilla)
The Murcian bicicleta is the anchovy-free cousin of the marinera: ensaladilla rusa mounded on a crisp rosquilla de pan. Keep the salad cold and the bread dry until the last minute.
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Montadito de pringá is Sevilla's way of making the best bite from the puchero: the stewed meats chopped together, warmed until glossy, and mounted on soft bread.
Montadito de pringá is Sevillano, and it belongs to the cooking that doesn't waste the good part. After a puchero, the Andalusian stew, the meats are lifted out: pork, beef, chicken, tocino, chorizo, morcilla if there is any. They get chopped together while warm until the fat, meat, and pimentón-stained juices make a rough, rich paste. That is the pringá. Mount it on soft bread and you have the bite Sevilla knows very well.
The method that decides it is not the bread. It is the stew before it. Cook the meats gently until they surrender, not until they go dry and stringy. Then chop them together with enough warm broth to make them juicy, but not wet. Too dry and it eats like leftovers. Too much broth and the bread collapses. There is the whole balance.
If you are far from Sevilla, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use a Spanish cooking chorizo if you can find it, a mild blood sausage for morcilla, and a piece of pork belly or salt pork for tocino. If morcilla is missing, leave it out and add a little more chorizo and pork fat; the bite will be less dark and earthy, but still honest. My Margin for this one says only: chop finer than you think. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Pringá belongs to the Andalusian puchero, the household pot where chickpeas, vegetables, bones, and meats made broth first and a second meal after. In Sevilla, the shredded meats from that pot became a prized filling for a small montadito, especially because the fattier cuts carried the flavor that lean meat alone could not give. Its name comes from pringar, to smear or soak with fat and juices, which tells the cook exactly what the texture should be.
Quantity
500g
cut into large chunks
Quantity
300g
cut into large chunks
Quantity
1, about 250g
bone-in and skin-on
Quantity
150g
rinsed if very salty
Quantity
150g
Quantity
150g
Quantity
200g
soaked overnight
Quantity
1 large
peeled
Quantity
1
cleaned
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 small
peeled
Quantity
2
Quantity
8
Quantity
2 teaspoons, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
120ml
as needed
Quantity
5, split, or 10 thick slices soft white country bread
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| pork shouldercut into large chunks | 500g |
| beef shin or brisketcut into large chunks | 300g |
| chicken thighbone-in and skin-on | 1, about 250g |
| tocino, pork belly, or salt porkrinsed if very salty | 150g |
| Spanish cooking chorizo | 150g |
| morcilla, preferably Spanish blood sausage | 150g |
| dried chickpeas (optional)soaked overnight | 200g |
| carrotpeeled | 1 large |
| leekcleaned | 1 |
| celery stalk | 1 |
| onionpeeled | 1 small |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| black peppercorns | 8 |
| fine salt | 2 teaspoons, plus more to taste |
| olive oil | 1 tablespoon |
| warm cooking brothas needed | 120ml |
| small soft rolls or molletes | 5, split, or 10 thick slices soft white country bread |
Put the pork shoulder, beef, chicken thigh, tocino, soaked chickpeas if using, carrot, leek, celery, onion, bay leaves, peppercorns, and salt in a tall heavy pot. Cover with cold water by 4cm and bring it up slowly. Skim the grey foam that rises; clean broth matters, even when the final bite is rough and rich.
Lower the heat and simmer gently for 2 hours, with the surface barely moving. Add the chorizo and morcilla for the last 35 to 40 minutes so they flavor the pot without bursting and muddying the broth. The meat is ready when the pork and beef pull apart with a fork and the chicken slips from the bone.
Lift the meats and sausages onto a tray and ladle 250ml of broth into a small jug. Strain and keep the rest of the broth for soup or rice; that is the first gift of the puchero. When the meats are cool enough to handle, discard bones, gristle, bay leaves, and vegetable scraps.
Chop the pork, beef, chicken, tocino, chorizo, and morcilla together with a large knife until the mixture is fine but not smooth. Add warm broth a tablespoon at a time, about 80 to 120ml total, until the pringá looks glossy and holds together loosely. This is the step that decides the dish: juicy enough to smear the bread, never soupy.
Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a frying pan over medium-low heat. Add the chopped pringá and warm it for 4 to 5 minutes, turning it with a spoon until the fat shines and the edges catch in little browned bits. Taste for salt only now, because the tocino, chorizo, and morcilla have already spoken.
Split the rolls and toast the cut sides just until lightly crisp while the inside stays soft. Spoon a generous layer of hot pringá over each half-roll, pressing it down so the juices meet the bread. Serve at once, open-faced, with napkins nearby. It is called pringá for a reason.
1 serving (about 145g)
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